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Factory rear panel install
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8595397" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>Again give up on that rear panel forever if you are chasing SQ, anything to the rear will just hurt SQ and contribute nothing to how good your sound system sounds or even make any noticeable difference. Do you go to a concert with your back facing the band? Nope. Music is recorded in 2.1 stereo. not 4.1 or 5.1 save that for home theater movies with dolby encoding. Literally i can tell you the end result of you putting in a pair of midbass in the rear. End result, you wont hear them over the front, they make at best a .00000001% difference to how your system sounds. Actually they might reduce your overall subwoofer bass since you covered up the hole where bass can travel inside the cabin.</p><p></p><p>If you used the multi-meter method and used a 0 db test tone or even a -5 db test tone, you arent anywhere near clipping, you just basically gave up a bunch of output for nothing because most music is recorded with -10 levels of bass. So HIGH chance of you incorrectly undergaining the amp. Thats the issue with the mult-meter method, you arent playing sine waves, you play music and music has a large variety of recording levels and you need to know how to adjust your volume according to each song based on you knowing the limits of your system meaning how loud it actually goes before the equipment starts straining. The best indicator is equipment heat. If the amp or sub is ice cold after 10 minute bump session, you need to turn the gain up... If the amp or sub is hot after 10 mins, you need to lower the gain or beef up electricals if the voltage drop is bad as well. If the amp is slightly to moderately warm after 10-30 mins of play, you are at the ideal setting.</p><p></p><p>a stand alone EQ is garbage nowadays. The way to go is a DSP digital sound processor, Read up on those.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8595397, member: 650438"] Again give up on that rear panel forever if you are chasing SQ, anything to the rear will just hurt SQ and contribute nothing to how good your sound system sounds or even make any noticeable difference. Do you go to a concert with your back facing the band? Nope. Music is recorded in 2.1 stereo. not 4.1 or 5.1 save that for home theater movies with dolby encoding. Literally i can tell you the end result of you putting in a pair of midbass in the rear. End result, you wont hear them over the front, they make at best a .00000001% difference to how your system sounds. Actually they might reduce your overall subwoofer bass since you covered up the hole where bass can travel inside the cabin. If you used the multi-meter method and used a 0 db test tone or even a -5 db test tone, you arent anywhere near clipping, you just basically gave up a bunch of output for nothing because most music is recorded with -10 levels of bass. So HIGH chance of you incorrectly undergaining the amp. Thats the issue with the mult-meter method, you arent playing sine waves, you play music and music has a large variety of recording levels and you need to know how to adjust your volume according to each song based on you knowing the limits of your system meaning how loud it actually goes before the equipment starts straining. The best indicator is equipment heat. If the amp or sub is ice cold after 10 minute bump session, you need to turn the gain up... If the amp or sub is hot after 10 mins, you need to lower the gain or beef up electricals if the voltage drop is bad as well. If the amp is slightly to moderately warm after 10-30 mins of play, you are at the ideal setting. a stand alone EQ is garbage nowadays. The way to go is a DSP digital sound processor, Read up on those. [/QUOTE]
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