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Factory rear panel install
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8595396" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>acoustical environment. Basically all the panels in the car are surfaces that sound waves bounce off of and that causes issues and sound/fidelity degredation. Such as where your tweet is placed currently, its close by the heater/AC vent but that whole panel right there is blocking the side of the tweeter which means half of the tweeter's sound is reflected off that surface and its dispersing everywhere. If on axis at your face as too harsh you can just EQ it down or better yet, go active networks. Along with the car being a noisy environment as well in both electrical and road noise. In the doors, the speakers need to direct the sound to the vehicle otherwise it gets trapped in the door panel and the sound waves literally fights itself. You need both deadening, proper baffle to direct the sound outwards past the door panel along with rear speaker wave absorption and also turning the whole door into a proper speaker enclosure Also the speaker drivers are not equal distance apart so your time alignment for the components will never truely be accurate unless you go active which lets you change the crossover point and set each individual midrange, tweeter and midbass's time alignment perfectly dead center.</p><p></p><p>Sound treatments and deadening is a big part of the install as it helps alleviates some of the issues that degrade sound quality and it makes a huge difference. This whole thread from post 10 and onwards show how an acoustical engineer sound treats his car for the near perfect listening environment. Just to give you a clue on what it really takes to truely achieve sound quality in a car.</p><p></p><p><a href="http:////forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/608637-2014-accord-sport-sq-build-keep_hope_alive-9.html" target="_blank">http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/608637-2014-accord-sport-sq-build-keep_hope_alive-9.html</a></p><p></p><p>The next step would be an 8 channel digital sound processor and another 4 channel amp to run active. So it'll be two 4 channel amps. One of them (lower power one) will be bridged to the midbass, the other 4 channel will power the the midrange and tweeter. Each individual driver will be time aligned. Each individual driver can be EQ'd with the 31 band EQ available for maximum fine tuning. Each speaker will have more power. The overall crossover points will blend together much better suited custom tailored to your vehicle's acoustics. so yeah those are the advantages of a DSP.</p><p></p><p>Now in comparison, home audio is SQ for dummies basically. Just buy decent speakers, a good receiver and proper placement, plug it into a wall socket ViOLA SQ tuned ready to go. Car audio requires MUCH more skill and knowledge to get great results while home audio, you can get decent results without any knowledge or skill. Sure you can do some foam acoustical treatments in a room but that is literally nothing compared to what needs to be done in a car.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8595396, member: 650438"] acoustical environment. Basically all the panels in the car are surfaces that sound waves bounce off of and that causes issues and sound/fidelity degredation. Such as where your tweet is placed currently, its close by the heater/AC vent but that whole panel right there is blocking the side of the tweeter which means half of the tweeter's sound is reflected off that surface and its dispersing everywhere. If on axis at your face as too harsh you can just EQ it down or better yet, go active networks. Along with the car being a noisy environment as well in both electrical and road noise. In the doors, the speakers need to direct the sound to the vehicle otherwise it gets trapped in the door panel and the sound waves literally fights itself. You need both deadening, proper baffle to direct the sound outwards past the door panel along with rear speaker wave absorption and also turning the whole door into a proper speaker enclosure Also the speaker drivers are not equal distance apart so your time alignment for the components will never truely be accurate unless you go active which lets you change the crossover point and set each individual midrange, tweeter and midbass's time alignment perfectly dead center. Sound treatments and deadening is a big part of the install as it helps alleviates some of the issues that degrade sound quality and it makes a huge difference. This whole thread from post 10 and onwards show how an acoustical engineer sound treats his car for the near perfect listening environment. Just to give you a clue on what it really takes to truely achieve sound quality in a car. [URL="http:////forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/608637-2014-accord-sport-sq-build-keep_hope_alive-9.html"]http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/608637-2014-accord-sport-sq-build-keep_hope_alive-9.html[/URL] The next step would be an 8 channel digital sound processor and another 4 channel amp to run active. So it'll be two 4 channel amps. One of them (lower power one) will be bridged to the midbass, the other 4 channel will power the the midrange and tweeter. Each individual driver will be time aligned. Each individual driver can be EQ'd with the 31 band EQ available for maximum fine tuning. Each speaker will have more power. The overall crossover points will blend together much better suited custom tailored to your vehicle's acoustics. so yeah those are the advantages of a DSP. Now in comparison, home audio is SQ for dummies basically. Just buy decent speakers, a good receiver and proper placement, plug it into a wall socket ViOLA SQ tuned ready to go. Car audio requires MUCH more skill and knowledge to get great results while home audio, you can get decent results without any knowledge or skill. Sure you can do some foam acoustical treatments in a room but that is literally nothing compared to what needs to be done in a car. [/QUOTE]
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