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Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Engine whine and ground loop fixes... take two
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<blockquote data-quote="uPsDdOWN" data-source="post: 3131169" data-attributes="member: 577676"><p>Pioneer made it NICE and EASY to get to the circuitry... carefull use your small flat blade scredriver to "POP" these two little pressure buttons out--releasing the top.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude149.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude146.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>from Left to right...</p><p></p><p>Once the top is removed you are looking at the CD Transport... Pioneer attach's this entire unit with four screws.</p><p></p><p>Screw 1 and 2 are easy. #3 is easy to get too and can be recovered easily with your needlenose pliers if you drop it...</p><p></p><p>#4-- here is where you need the magnetized screwdriver! It is buried down at the bottom, even when you pull this assembly out it is VERY Difficult to set it in there for re-assembly--trust me-- magnetize one of your small screwdrivers! You will thank me!</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/removetransport.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Now, be VERY CAREFUL... the upper cd transport assembly is attached to the bottom Circuit board with a very thin and fragile ribbon cable... if you can gently set it aside, that would be better than pulling it..those tiny ends are a BEAR to get back in!</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude128.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Now you are to the MEAT of it!</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude126.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Notice my HU has three outputs... F/R/S-- SO, there are three pre-amp Pico Fuses that need to be checked. I did Not take the board out and turn it over...sorry... the pico fuse just looks like one of those small diodes. NOTICE: that the FU Pico FUse is parallel to the CN circuit. Just another way you know you are looking at the right solder joint.</p><p></p><p>FU352= <strong>F</strong>ront Output</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude105.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>FU151=<strong> R</strong>ear Output (I dont use these in my system)</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude089.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>FU351 = <strong>S</strong>ub Output -- Its hard to see--it is the one next to the coil</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude137.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>After some testing I found that the FU352 Pico fuse is the one (well one of the components) introducing noise into my radio.</p><p></p><p>So, a strand of copper and...we bypass the blown pico fuse!</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude120.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>(sorry bout the quality (or lack there of in the pic--no matter what I tried I just couldnt get a GOOD pic of the bridged soldered connection)</p><p></p><p>OR</p><p></p><p>YOU can actually use a resistor, just make sure no part of the lead shorts agains any other component in the case!</p><p></p><p>Thank you to "dalinkwent" on the DIYMobileAudio Forum for this picture!</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/IMG_1115.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>This is a proven Fix and I want to thank the fellow geeks Over at DIY MOBILE AUDIO for the instructions!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="uPsDdOWN, post: 3131169, member: 577676"] Pioneer made it NICE and EASY to get to the circuitry... carefull use your small flat blade scredriver to "POP" these two little pressure buttons out--releasing the top. [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude149.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude146.jpg[/IMG] from Left to right... Once the top is removed you are looking at the CD Transport... Pioneer attach's this entire unit with four screws. Screw 1 and 2 are easy. #3 is easy to get too and can be recovered easily with your needlenose pliers if you drop it... #4-- here is where you need the magnetized screwdriver! It is buried down at the bottom, even when you pull this assembly out it is VERY Difficult to set it in there for re-assembly--trust me-- magnetize one of your small screwdrivers! You will thank me! [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/removetransport.jpg[/IMG] Now, be VERY CAREFUL... the upper cd transport assembly is attached to the bottom Circuit board with a very thin and fragile ribbon cable... if you can gently set it aside, that would be better than pulling it..those tiny ends are a BEAR to get back in! [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude128.jpg[/IMG] Now you are to the MEAT of it! [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude126.jpg[/IMG] Notice my HU has three outputs... F/R/S-- SO, there are three pre-amp Pico Fuses that need to be checked. I did Not take the board out and turn it over...sorry... the pico fuse just looks like one of those small diodes. NOTICE: that the FU Pico FUse is parallel to the CN circuit. Just another way you know you are looking at the right solder joint. FU352= [B]F[/B]ront Output [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude105.jpg[/IMG] FU151=[B] R[/B]ear Output (I dont use these in my system) [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude089.jpg[/IMG] FU351 = [B]S[/B]ub Output -- Its hard to see--it is the one next to the coil [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude137.jpg[/IMG] After some testing I found that the FU352 Pico fuse is the one (well one of the components) introducing noise into my radio. So, a strand of copper and...we bypass the blown pico fuse! [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/Prelude120.jpg[/IMG] (sorry bout the quality (or lack there of in the pic--no matter what I tried I just couldnt get a GOOD pic of the bridged soldered connection) OR YOU can actually use a resistor, just make sure no part of the lead shorts agains any other component in the case! Thank you to "dalinkwent" on the DIYMobileAudio Forum for this picture! [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u4/TheDancingDuck/Prelude/IMG_1115.jpg[/IMG] This is a proven Fix and I want to thank the fellow geeks Over at DIY MOBILE AUDIO for the instructions! [/QUOTE]
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Engine whine and ground loop fixes... take two
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