Eff my life...

hmm sorry back on your thread

if your alt is easliy accesible with the car running take your DMM and check the voltage ON the alternator if it is 12.4 then the alt is not working

if its putting out what it is supposed to then take a big thick wire and run from the ground on the alt to the ground on the batt, then see if it starts working //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
take the battery completely out, trickle charge it over night, then take it back and have it tested not in the car...
x2 i had a batt in a car that sat for like 3 mths never started, cca was supposed to be like 750, it tested around 300 something, trickled it on 2amps for 24 hours, up to over 600. Been in the car for 7mths now, no problems

 
i can't believe that HUUGE 220 dollar battery only does 800CCA.... FTL... I saw one at autozone yesterday that does like 950 for like 80 bucks.. just as beefy
thin plates = less lead so cheaper = more surface area = quicker power (cca), lower Ah = shorter lasting charge

thick plates = more lead so expensive = less surface area = slower power (cca), higher Ah = longer lasting charge

The average car audio person wants something in the middle with a decent cca and Ah.

Besides marketing, the price of a batt is generally based on the amount of lead used.

 
I say trickle charge the battery like others have mentioned.

I always have run different batteries, usually deep cycles though, but different brands as I get them when I see a good sale and never have ran an isolator ever in a good 20 different cars from over the years and my batteries have always been fine. You may lose some life out of them, but not that fast, lol!

So I highly doubt it is because you are not using an isolator. Just an FYI.

I have no big3 done to my car currently and running close to 2k.......1700rms to be more exact and red top up front, powermaster5100 in back all in Knu 0/1g wire with no issues what so ever and no dimming at all.

Trickle charge it!

Oh and who checked the alty? Autozone? I say throw a DMM on it as well to check it again to be sure.

 
the regulator is built in on the stock alt so if it is bad then the whole unit will have to be replaced. mabie the pulley on the new alt is too large, is it the same size as the factory one. if its not then it will not produce the same output at idle

 
thin plates = less lead so cheaper = more surface area = quicker power (cca), lower Ah = shorter lasting charge
thick plates = more lead so expensive = less surface area = slower power (cca), higher Ah = longer lasting charge

The average car audio person wants something in the middle with a decent cca and Ah.

Besides marketing, the price of a batt is generally based on the amount of lead used.
so if its a heavy asz battery, is it safe to assume its built well? (with a lot of lead)

 
could be a weak cell in the battery. are you 2 batteries the same type. ie flooded, agm...
not to bust your chops or start a fight but each cell in a battery either works or it doesn't. each cell (there are 6 in a 12 volt battery) has between 2.1 and 2.2 volts each. 2.1 x 6 = 12.6 standard battery voltage. there is no weak cell, it is good or it is a dead short cell. if the battery has 12+ volts the cells are fine the reason the car drops voltage while running is either the alt is bad (new or not) or the wiring somwhere is funky somewhere and the car is running off the battery only.

 
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