Eclipse subwoofers bottoming out

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Sounds like a combination of signal distortion, cone breakup from over-excursion and right at the end, tinsel slap.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

The leads are woven-in, no potential for slap. I guarantee you're not bottoming because of what I stated a few posts above. Either something is lightly touching the cone from behind (speaker wire?), or the coil is misaligned and the former is tick-ticking on the T-yoke. Some of these drivers have removable top assemblies and can be skewed enough to cause this. If yours doesn't have the removable top, perhaps the suspension is just so worn that a degree of cantilevering is taking place.

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww43/ciaonzo/For%20Sale/DSC02661.jpg

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww43/ciaonzo/For%20Sale/DSC02665.jpg

 

[Drummer65 10+ year member]

Before i thought it was just one of the subs but its actually both. The speaker wire is tight so its definitely not touching the cone. My subs don't have the removable top so the magnet cant be misaligned. The coils could possibly be misaligned but whats weird is that its happening to both subs.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

A agree, it's not likely that they would both do the exact same thing at the same time if it were mechanical. Probably clipping and distortion then.

Mo powa yo.

 

[Drummer65 10+ year member]

Really more power? i thought i was over powering them already. Okay well hopefully when i get all three in their new box and with the orion 2500d it will go away. Ill try to free air it tho to see if i can spot it hitting anything.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

No, if you hear distortion and clipping that sounds mechanical far before the actual mechanical limits of the driver are reached, that's an indication of a lack power. It's always better to have more power on tap than you actually need and to be judicial with the gains and volume knob, while observing the mechanical and thermal limits of the drivers. Since the two rarely coincide, you might have to learn that the hard way a couple times to really get the hang of this approach.

 

[NissanKicker 10+ year member]

Bro... Eclipse Subs DO NOT LIKE PORTED ENCLOSURES ( Anything under the 9000 series that it )

... Get them out of that box... and SEAL THEM!

Matter fact, just seal that prefab ported box off... ( put piece of wood of the ports - COMPLETELY COVERING THE PORTS )

... Believe me.. I had 4 of those in a ported enclosure, they sounded like garbage, and was doing the same thing...

SEALED THEM - BYE BYE PROBLEMS - Happy Speakers... Happy Listener...

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

Bro... Eclipse Subs DO NOT LIKE PORTED ENCLOSURES ( Anything under the 9000 series that it )... Get them out of that box... and SEAL THEM!

Matter fact, just seal that prefab ported box off... ( put piece of wood of the ports - COMPLETELY COVERING THE PORTS )

... Believe me.. I had 4 of those in a ported enclosure, they sounded like garbage, and was doing the same thing...

SEALED THEM - BYE BYE PROBLEMS - Happy Speakers... Happy Listener...

Qts is .29, EBP of 96.55, vented enclosure all day.

Mo Ron.

 

[NissanKicker 10+ year member]

I don't care WHAT the qts & EBP says...

... I'm telling from experience...

Ported ain't it for this subs.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

I don't care WHAT the qts & EBP says...... I'm telling from experience...

Ported ain't it for this subs.

And you do sound very experienced. Perhaps someday you'll share with us your proposed standard for driver parameters but until then I'll use the current one, lol.

Next time do it right.

 

[power-fanatic07 5,000+ posts]

I don't care WHAT the qts & EBP says...... I'm telling from experience...

Ported ain't it for this subs.

Lol, dude.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

Poor subs. Send them to me so I can use them properly.

 

[NissanKicker 10+ year member]

until you go sealed... you're gonna have this problem..

.. Enough said.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

until you go sealed... you're gonna have this problem.... Enough said.

Are you aware that you can still clip the subs and have the same noise in a sealed enviorment? Then what? The OP is out money and time spent on building another enclosure with the same issues.

 

[Kyle_Keating 10+ year member]

I've got two 12" eclipse aluminum 88120.4 svc subwoofers running off a hifonics bxi2607d. Every time I turn them up I get a loud clacking noise from both of the drivers indicating that They are bottoming out. The two subs are rated at 500 rms but are known to take almost double of that. My amp pushes out about 2300 rms at 1 ohm which is probably a little too much for the two subs can handle. I have another 88120 svc sub so do you guys think adding another sub will stop the bottoming out by distributing the power more? The reason I'm not going ahead and testing it is because I first would need to build a box to hold the three Subs which is going to take time and money. Any help would be great.EDIT: BXI2607d not bxi2010d

2300 watts will bottom any driver in the world at the right frequency in the right system, you can't just go by an amplifiers RMS spec and assume you're good. You should always model your design (Use WinISD because its free) with appropriate voltage and include high pass protection filters if needed.