Item(s) for Sale:
Late 90's Earthquake 200DHC Mk1
Item(s) Description/Condition:
Underrated at 1600w rms @ 2ohms.
Internals are mostly all new here's some quoted text from Spooney who did all upgrades/repairs to my knowledge:
"I did add those fans but the best thing I did for this amp is replace just about every electrolytic capacitor in the amp. The new caps are very high quality Panasonic fc series caps. The only electrolytic cap I did not replace was the brown one near the speaker inputs because it could not be sourced as it is a rare value bipolar cap. Nothing wrong with that cap though at all. All the new caps alone in this amp cost about 40 bucks and made a noticeable difference in the sound. As for the fans they are not powered directly off of the remote turn on lead. They are controlled by that small blue relay that is powered by the main power and ground inputs to the amp. When remote turn on voltage is applied it engages the relay and powers on the fans. I made the whole fan setup easily removable just in case anybody ever wanted to return it to stock but the fans keep this thing pretty cool. I recommend mounting it on spacers though to give the fans room to breathe. I also added new kapton insulation tape behind the fets and new heatsink compound while I had this apart. This thing should last somebody a very long time if ran at the proper ohm load and I am kicking myself for letting her go. Beastly little amp for sure. I am currently running its bigger brother (PHD2) in my car now."
"Here is another little tidbit of info I should add. If you notice in the pics there is a 20 amp fuse on the inside of the amp near the speaker outputs. Previously this fuse was located on the underside of the board(soldered directly to it actually). This fuse is placed directly inline with the positive speaker output terminals. If you blow your sub this fuse should blow before any serious damage is done to the amplifier. Earthquake used to charge big bucks back in the day to fix peoples "blown" amps when all that was wrong with them was this fuse. Instead of having to pull the whole board to replace this fuse(which most people would never even know was there in the first place) I simply added some short wire leads and made this fuse accessible from the top side of the board should it ever need to be changed. Newer versions of the amp(200dhc mark2,PHD2,etc) all had this fuse in a fuse holder directly on the board for easy access so I thought this amp should have the same. Saves a lot of time and possibly a repair bill for big bucks from a shady amp tech should you nuke a sub with this old school beast."
"Small update for you. Got the new output fets soldered in yesterday and tested the amp briefly. Happy to say that the amp passed initial testing. Amp is producing clean output both on the scope and to the ear when played through a subwoofer. I have yet to put the amp through its full paces though as I noticed something yesterday while doing the testing. The power supply fets that are in the amp do not have matching date codes. The amp does work fine with these parts installed and many techs would send it on to you like this but I will not. For the best reliability all of the power supply fets should have matching date codes. This insures that each one is as close to being identical as possible. The supplier I bought these from usually does an excellent job of getting me matched parts however in this case they kind of screwed me over. No worries though. To remedy the problem I have already ordered upgraded power supply fets from another supplier in a large enough quantity to assure that I get matched parts. It will be a couple days before those parts show up but once they are here I will get them installed quickly and the power supply in the amp should be tougher than original. I apologize for the extra time this is going to take. This is the first time my supplier has failed to get me matching parts. I could send the amp to you in its current state as it is functioning 100 percent properly but I just don't do repairs like that. The amp will not leave my bench until it has all matching date coded parts in it. That is the only good way to do repairs. I will update you as the parts come in."
Also the whole power supply was repaired and the new matching date coded parts were put in. I am fairly confident with the upgraded parts that this does in fact put out much closer to if not slightly more than 2000 watts @ 2 ohms.
Price:
$275 shipped obo this thing is like a new amp with a total of maybe 2 hours play time on the new Panasonic caps and only tested since the entire power supply has been repaired, Spooney does very professional work and no shortcuts were taken at all to make this amp 100% functional.
Shipping and Miscellaneous Item Information:
Item Pictures:
View attachment 26535369View attachment 26535371View attachment 26535370View attachment 26535368View attachment 26535367
(List pictures in this section, 1st picture should be your username/date if you have less than 10 positive feedbacks with the i-Trader system or less than 10 references that you have sold to in the past. (These must be listed in your signature, or a link provided to a feedback thread listing these references)).
Late 90's Earthquake 200DHC Mk1
Item(s) Description/Condition:
Underrated at 1600w rms @ 2ohms.
Internals are mostly all new here's some quoted text from Spooney who did all upgrades/repairs to my knowledge:
"I did add those fans but the best thing I did for this amp is replace just about every electrolytic capacitor in the amp. The new caps are very high quality Panasonic fc series caps. The only electrolytic cap I did not replace was the brown one near the speaker inputs because it could not be sourced as it is a rare value bipolar cap. Nothing wrong with that cap though at all. All the new caps alone in this amp cost about 40 bucks and made a noticeable difference in the sound. As for the fans they are not powered directly off of the remote turn on lead. They are controlled by that small blue relay that is powered by the main power and ground inputs to the amp. When remote turn on voltage is applied it engages the relay and powers on the fans. I made the whole fan setup easily removable just in case anybody ever wanted to return it to stock but the fans keep this thing pretty cool. I recommend mounting it on spacers though to give the fans room to breathe. I also added new kapton insulation tape behind the fets and new heatsink compound while I had this apart. This thing should last somebody a very long time if ran at the proper ohm load and I am kicking myself for letting her go. Beastly little amp for sure. I am currently running its bigger brother (PHD2) in my car now."
"Here is another little tidbit of info I should add. If you notice in the pics there is a 20 amp fuse on the inside of the amp near the speaker outputs. Previously this fuse was located on the underside of the board(soldered directly to it actually). This fuse is placed directly inline with the positive speaker output terminals. If you blow your sub this fuse should blow before any serious damage is done to the amplifier. Earthquake used to charge big bucks back in the day to fix peoples "blown" amps when all that was wrong with them was this fuse. Instead of having to pull the whole board to replace this fuse(which most people would never even know was there in the first place) I simply added some short wire leads and made this fuse accessible from the top side of the board should it ever need to be changed. Newer versions of the amp(200dhc mark2,PHD2,etc) all had this fuse in a fuse holder directly on the board for easy access so I thought this amp should have the same. Saves a lot of time and possibly a repair bill for big bucks from a shady amp tech should you nuke a sub with this old school beast."
"Small update for you. Got the new output fets soldered in yesterday and tested the amp briefly. Happy to say that the amp passed initial testing. Amp is producing clean output both on the scope and to the ear when played through a subwoofer. I have yet to put the amp through its full paces though as I noticed something yesterday while doing the testing. The power supply fets that are in the amp do not have matching date codes. The amp does work fine with these parts installed and many techs would send it on to you like this but I will not. For the best reliability all of the power supply fets should have matching date codes. This insures that each one is as close to being identical as possible. The supplier I bought these from usually does an excellent job of getting me matched parts however in this case they kind of screwed me over. No worries though. To remedy the problem I have already ordered upgraded power supply fets from another supplier in a large enough quantity to assure that I get matched parts. It will be a couple days before those parts show up but once they are here I will get them installed quickly and the power supply in the amp should be tougher than original. I apologize for the extra time this is going to take. This is the first time my supplier has failed to get me matching parts. I could send the amp to you in its current state as it is functioning 100 percent properly but I just don't do repairs like that. The amp will not leave my bench until it has all matching date coded parts in it. That is the only good way to do repairs. I will update you as the parts come in."
Also the whole power supply was repaired and the new matching date coded parts were put in. I am fairly confident with the upgraded parts that this does in fact put out much closer to if not slightly more than 2000 watts @ 2 ohms.
Price:
$275 shipped obo this thing is like a new amp with a total of maybe 2 hours play time on the new Panasonic caps and only tested since the entire power supply has been repaired, Spooney does very professional work and no shortcuts were taken at all to make this amp 100% functional.
Shipping and Miscellaneous Item Information:
Item Pictures:
View attachment 26535369View attachment 26535371View attachment 26535370View attachment 26535368View attachment 26535367
(List pictures in this section, 1st picture should be your username/date if you have less than 10 positive feedbacks with the i-Trader system or less than 10 references that you have sold to in the past. (These must be listed in your signature, or a link provided to a feedback thread listing these references)).
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