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Door Deadening - How much with SLC Kicks?
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<blockquote data-quote="trumpet" data-source="post: 8116482" data-attributes="member: 628688"><p>Get a quote from Don at Sound Deadener Showdown for the products he recommends to fully treat your doors. Vibration damper is just one part of the process and you don't need to go crazy with it.</p><p></p><p>No on the deflex pads, no on egg carton foam, no on any kind of open cell foam in the door. No on closed cell foam also. It won't do much good inside the door as you're concerned about controlling low frequencies, not treble.</p><p></p><p>Non-hardening modeling clay can get nasty and melt when it gets hot. Duct seal is a better product.</p><p></p><p>I use standard $.02 crimp terminals for my speaker connections. Make sure they fit snugly so they can't vibrate loose. I make mine tight enough that I have to back up the speaker terminal with my fingers to avoid breaking it off.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="trumpet, post: 8116482, member: 628688"] Get a quote from Don at Sound Deadener Showdown for the products he recommends to fully treat your doors. Vibration damper is just one part of the process and you don't need to go crazy with it. No on the deflex pads, no on egg carton foam, no on any kind of open cell foam in the door. No on closed cell foam also. It won't do much good inside the door as you're concerned about controlling low frequencies, not treble. Non-hardening modeling clay can get nasty and melt when it gets hot. Duct seal is a better product. I use standard $.02 crimp terminals for my speaker connections. Make sure they fit snugly so they can't vibrate loose. I make mine tight enough that I have to back up the speaker terminal with my fingers to avoid breaking it off. [/QUOTE]
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