Do RCA cables make a difference and fuse size

[PuZo 10+ year member]

I have some cheap 15 dollar monster RCA cables inside right now. I am going to re-wire my car, so I'm wondering, how much of a difference do different RCA cables make? I know with some cables, like HDMI where quality doesnt really matter, but how about RCA? I am thinking of getting some form knukonceptz for 20 dollars a pair. Will it make any difference at all?

Also sinec I'm upgrading my wires, I wil need a new distro. it gives me a choice of what size fuse to use. Currently I'm using 60A. What is the difference? Since I'm splitting 1/0 to 4 gauge, should I use 80A? Thanks

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[jco1385 5,000+ posts]

for the RCA's shielded is better but i'm sure that you won't notice a difference. maybe those are shielded ??

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Well, 1/0 is good for 300-325A, but if your 60 never blew, there's no reason to change it. However, since you're apparently well below the 300A limit I'd just size the fuse based on the sum of the fuses on your amp(s).

 

[PuZo 10+ year member]

Well, 1/0 is good for 300-325A, but if your 60 never blew, there's no reason to change it. However, since you're apparently well below the 300A limit I'd just size the fuse based on the sum of the fuses on your amp(s).

So since one of my amps has 3 fuses I believe, and my other has 1, I would take the total of all 4 fuses and use that? Or just the sum of each into each distro? And also what about the one at the front, near the battery?

Assuming Amp1, 3 fuses = 150A

Amp2=60A

Would I make the first fuse near the bat 110A(or closest)

And then at the distro make the one going to Amp1 a 150a fuse and so on?

 

[jco1385 5,000+ posts]

i'd fuse @ 150 at the front. same at distro

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

So since one of my amps has 3 fuses I believe, and my other has 1, I would take the total of all 4 fuses and use that? Or just the sum of each into each distro? And also what about the one at the front, near the battery?
Assuming Amp1, 3 fuses = 150A

Amp2=60A

Would I make the first fuse near the bat 110A(or closest)

And then at the distro make the one going to Amp1 a 150a fuse and so on?

For some reason I wasn't taking the d-block into consideration...

Fuse at batt should be roughly the sum of all 4 fuses -- sounds like 200A would be about right for your case (although I've never heard of an amp with 3x50's).

At the fuse block you don't want to go higher than 125A or so since you're running 4 ga. If it's a typical AGU block I think 80A is about the largest fuse you'll find (maybe there are some 100's out there) for the big amp. 50-60A for the small one.

If it's an ANL d-block go ahead and go with the 125 for the big amp, but keep the same 50-60 for the small.

 

[PuZo 10+ year member]

Okay so my DLS has 4 fuses totaling 140A, my kenwood has a 40A fuse, so I should make it 180A(or closest to 180) at the front, and then 140 in the d-block for the dls and then a 40A(or 60) for the kenwood, right?

Im ordering from knukonceptz

Im getting a 200A fuse for the front, and then a 150 and a 40 for the d-block. Is this okay?

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

yeah, that's about right. I take it you have an ANL d-block??

I'd probably go 175A up front. 125 for the DLS and 50 for the Kenwood.

 

[PuZo 10+ year member]

yeah, that's about right. I take it you have an ANL d-block??I'd probably go 175A up front. 125 for the DLS and 50 for the Kenwood.

I'm getting this one

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNF-22D

 

[coyote_5 10+ year member]

yeah, that's about right. I take it you have an ANL d-block??I'd probably go 175A up front. 125 for the DLS and 50 for the Kenwood.

Regarding the fusing at the d-block, why the different fuse sizes? Aren't we just fusing for the wire? The amps have their own fuses for protection.

I'm trying to figure out my setup and I'm running 4awg from the bat to the block (Stinger MIDI fused block) and then 4awg to two amps - 100.2 and 500.1 (106~ current draw). Each amp has 60amps of fusing.

I was planning on using 100a or 125a across the board (at battery and at dblock). This way I don't have to mess with multiple wire gauge and fuse rating. Is this a big no no? I don't understand why it would be, but then again I'm pretty much a noob. I was leaning towards 100a fuses because they are easier to find and cheaper for MIDI fuses.

 

[IDSkoT 5,000+ posts]

Well, 1/0 is good for 300-325A, but if your 60 never blew, there's no reason to change it. However, since you're apparently well below the 300A limit I'd just size the fuse based on the sum of the fuses on your amp(s).

Oh God, you're WRONG.

So, damn, wrong.

The fuse isn't to protect the amps, it's to protect the wire so that it doesn't catch on fire. When the fuse blows, that means the wire had too many amps running through it and was at risk of catching on fire.

For 0/1 AWG, I'd use a 300A fuse.

You fuse based on the wire, not based on the amps.

Don't post if you don't know what you're talking about.

Regarding the fusing at the d-block, why the different fuse sizes? Aren't we just fusing for the wire? The amps have their own fuses for protection.
I'm trying to figure out my setup and I'm running 4awg from the bat to the block (Stinger MIDI fused block) and then 4awg to two amps - 100.2 and 500.1 (106~ current draw). Each amp has 60amps of fusing.

I was planning on using 100a or 125a across the board (at battery and at dblock). This way I don't have to mess with multiple wire gauge and fuse rating. Is this a big no no? I don't understand why it would be, but then again I'm pretty much a noob. I was leaning towards 100a fuses because they are easier to find and cheaper for MIDI fuses.

For the utmost safety, you fuse the wire after the distribution block, for the same reason you fuse the main wire going back... incase there's a surge of amps, your wire won't catch on fire. A fused distribution block does the same thing. If you're going from 0/1 gauge to 4-AWG, you put a fuse the proper size for 4AWG (don't know the # ATM) at the fused distribution block, so you don't have to put an inline fuse for that wire.

And OP: High-end RCA cables supposedly make a difference, although most people with untrained ears won't be able to hear it. I've run cheap-o Radioshack RCA cables in every install I've ever done, and it sounds perfect. The difference in each RCA is based on the material the actual plug is made of, the size and material of the wire on the inside of the wire, and the shield around the wire. (The nicer / thicker the material, the more expensive.)

If you are just running a modest set-up, just stay with your RCA's.

 

[coyote_5 10+ year member]

For the utmost safety, you fuse the wire after the distribution block, for the same reason you fuse the main wire going back... incase there's a surge of amps, your wire won't catch on fire. A fused distribution block does the same thing. If you're going from 0/1 gauge to 4-AWG, you put a fuse the proper size for 4AWG (don't know the # ATM) at the fused distribution block, so you don't have to put an inline fuse for that wire.

Right, so if I'm running 4awg out of the block to the amps, I can just use 100a or 125a (max recommended by BCAE) for the 2 runs of 4awg, regardless of current draw of the amps they are going to. Is that correct?

I mean technically, I don't even need a fused block, since it's 4awg all the way from the battery...but I guess I wanted the extra protection layer, plus I can pull the fuses at the dblock and mess with the amps if need be....

 

[PuZo 10+ year member]

For the utmost safety, you fuse the wire after the distribution block, for the same reason you fuse the main wire going back... incase there's a surge of amps, your wire won't catch on fire. A fused distribution block does the same thing. If you're going from 0/1 gauge to 4-AWG, you put a fuse the proper size for 4AWG (don't know the # ATM) at the fused distribution block, so you don't have to put an inline fuse for that wire.

So I should put a 300A fuse at the front and then maybe 150A in the d-block going out into 4 awg?

My front with be ANL and my d-block is min-anl.

 

[coyote_5 10+ year member]

pretty sure 125a is the max recommended for 4awg...

check out bcae1.com, that's where I found it.

 

[basebalz13 10+ year member]

Oh God, you're WRONG.So, damn, wrong.

The fuse isn't to protect the amps, it's to protect the wire so that it doesn't catch on fire. When the fuse blows, that means the wire had too many amps running through it and was at risk of catching on fire.

For 0/1 AWG, I'd use a 300A fuse.

You fuse based on the wire, not based on the amps.

Don't post if you don't know what you're talking about.

please STFU and GTFO you are the wrong one, the fuse is to protect the amp, wires, car, everything, you base your fusing on your amp =/.... sad, very sad in deed. you are saying his amp use to use a 60 amp fuse, so now he's upgrading to 1/0 but using the same amp so now he should put a 300 amp for a 60 amp job wow your a noob. the lower the fuse rating the better, closer to the amp draw sp something goes wrong with the amp, but since the amp only draws less the 60 the fuse wont blow and itll ruin your amp, blow your subs etc