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Do I really need an H/O alternator for 2 12" Orion hcca 2500 watt rms speakers?
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<blockquote data-quote="honkyg" data-source="post: 8560126" data-attributes="member: 606879"><p>i like the r.i.p.s. system with the tightly regulated power supply, 1000watts constant between 1.5 and 4 ohm. think about wiring a dual 3ohm, 1000w sub down to 1.5 and figure in imp rise, if your rise doesnt go over 4 ohm, your driver will be seeing 1000w at all times.</p><p></p><p></p><p>youre welcome.</p><p></p><p>fyi, amp hours (ah) is the figure battery manufacturers rate their battery capacities at with it's applied rated voltage before it is fully discharged, not the same as amperage that is supplied on a needed basis by the alternator. a 90 ah battery will supply 1 ampere for 90 hours, 2 amperes for 45, 3 amperes for 30, 4 for 22.5 hours, and so on... im sure you can do the math and figure out how much battery reserve you need. another thing you need to consider is that 12v rated batteries will not discharge at or supply 14.4 volts. when your voltage drops to 12.5, it means your taxing the hell out of your alternator for current it can't give you so much that the batteries are pulling up the slack. going below 12.5, and that's when your ******* the life out of your batts.</p><p></p><p>when i had a 98 mustang v6, i only had at most 150 amps in total current draw for my amplifiers, but the alternator just couldnt do it without things going wacky and dimming, even with the big three X2 in 2 gauge. got a powermaster 200a alt and never dipped below 14.2v (holding at 2500rpm, mind you) after that with just a standard vented lead/acid 70ah batt up front. i used to rock out all the time in my garage late at night working on it for 3-4 hours at a time without any problems.</p><p></p><p>since then, ive always went overboard with supplying current.</p><p></p><p></p><p>not really, but it does fit in to the equation after the fact. i was referring to the volt-amperes the toroid supplies and what current it needs to operate properly.</p><p></p><p></p><p>i think los33 is on the same track i am, i confused some people, including myself after reading my own replies, lol. my explanation had to do more with the rail voltage (which is constant) supplied by the toroidal transformer in the amplifier and what it needs on tap to operate at any given load without taking into account loss or gain in efficiency due to heat or lack thereof.</p><p></p><p>look at it this way for example; stetsom and soundigital... both build 1 and 2 ohm versions of the same size amplifier, and if we go through and check the factory stated current draw for both versions of each amp, you will see there is a very minimal differences.</p><p></p><p></p><p>i like this^ , but why am i not surprised?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="honkyg, post: 8560126, member: 606879"] i like the r.i.p.s. system with the tightly regulated power supply, 1000watts constant between 1.5 and 4 ohm. think about wiring a dual 3ohm, 1000w sub down to 1.5 and figure in imp rise, if your rise doesnt go over 4 ohm, your driver will be seeing 1000w at all times. youre welcome. fyi, amp hours (ah) is the figure battery manufacturers rate their battery capacities at with it's applied rated voltage before it is fully discharged, not the same as amperage that is supplied on a needed basis by the alternator. a 90 ah battery will supply 1 ampere for 90 hours, 2 amperes for 45, 3 amperes for 30, 4 for 22.5 hours, and so on... im sure you can do the math and figure out how much battery reserve you need. another thing you need to consider is that 12v rated batteries will not discharge at or supply 14.4 volts. when your voltage drops to 12.5, it means your taxing the hell out of your alternator for current it can't give you so much that the batteries are pulling up the slack. going below 12.5, and that's when your ******* the life out of your batts. when i had a 98 mustang v6, i only had at most 150 amps in total current draw for my amplifiers, but the alternator just couldnt do it without things going wacky and dimming, even with the big three X2 in 2 gauge. got a powermaster 200a alt and never dipped below 14.2v (holding at 2500rpm, mind you) after that with just a standard vented lead/acid 70ah batt up front. i used to rock out all the time in my garage late at night working on it for 3-4 hours at a time without any problems. since then, ive always went overboard with supplying current. not really, but it does fit in to the equation after the fact. i was referring to the volt-amperes the toroid supplies and what current it needs to operate properly. i think los33 is on the same track i am, i confused some people, including myself after reading my own replies, lol. my explanation had to do more with the rail voltage (which is constant) supplied by the toroidal transformer in the amplifier and what it needs on tap to operate at any given load without taking into account loss or gain in efficiency due to heat or lack thereof. look at it this way for example; stetsom and soundigital... both build 1 and 2 ohm versions of the same size amplifier, and if we go through and check the factory stated current draw for both versions of each amp, you will see there is a very minimal differences. i like this^ , but why am i not surprised? [/QUOTE]
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Do I really need an H/O alternator for 2 12" Orion hcca 2500 watt rms speakers?
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