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dimming problem.
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<blockquote data-quote="old_dude" data-source="post: 5718911" data-attributes="member: 608305"><p>I'm with Buck on this one!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif (about the battery in the back)</p><p></p><p>I'm still in the process of building my current system (although all speakers but the subs are in and running off the deck for now, all to be rewired when the amps go in).</p><p></p><p>BUT: I was wanting to get a bigger alternator for my 98 Dodge Stratus <em>(before I even got a chance to experience the headlight dimming syndrome!)</em>. I asked several local friends, both auto mechanics and car audio buffs, if I would notice that much difference between my stock alternator's 125 amp rating and a Bosch 200 amp alternator I wanted to buy. My question was if an additional 75 would make that much of a difference.</p><p></p><p>The answer I got from <em>everyone</em> I asked? They ALL said to get a second battery! Even my friend of 30 years who has rebuilt alternators and starters since he was a kid said the same thing! Get a second battery! So I did. But he also said what I needed to do (and something you might consider) is the get a "Continuous Duty Solenoid" and hook it to my new 2nd battery rather than an isolator. He's an expert, so I took his advice. (Besides, he said that the 200 amp Bosch would NOT fit in my engine compartment at all!). You can buy them almost anywhere. But since so many auto parts counter people are complete idiots and want an exact application <em>(and color of your car's paint sometimes, for spark plugs</em>!) my buddy said if they ask what application you need this solenoid for, you just tell them it is for a Warn Winch. (Which told me I would be better off finding one at an RV parts dealer.)</p><p></p><p>So, that's one way to remedy your problem. If you use the Continuous Duty solenoid, I'm told (by an expert) that there is no need to run a a battery isolator. As long as you (and I, too) make SURE to get a deep-cycle marine (or RV) battery as your stereo's new friend. BTW, I went with a freakin' $189 Optima battery, so that sucker better do the job!</p><p></p><p>I hope this might have helped you or maybe steered you in the right direction.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="old_dude, post: 5718911, member: 608305"] I'm with Buck on this one![IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] (about the battery in the back) I'm still in the process of building my current system (although all speakers but the subs are in and running off the deck for now, all to be rewired when the amps go in). BUT: I was wanting to get a bigger alternator for my 98 Dodge Stratus [I](before I even got a chance to experience the headlight dimming syndrome!)[/I]. I asked several local friends, both auto mechanics and car audio buffs, if I would notice that much difference between my stock alternator's 125 amp rating and a Bosch 200 amp alternator I wanted to buy. My question was if an additional 75 would make that much of a difference. The answer I got from [I]everyone[/I] I asked? They ALL said to get a second battery! Even my friend of 30 years who has rebuilt alternators and starters since he was a kid said the same thing! Get a second battery! So I did. But he also said what I needed to do (and something you might consider) is the get a "Continuous Duty Solenoid" and hook it to my new 2nd battery rather than an isolator. He's an expert, so I took his advice. (Besides, he said that the 200 amp Bosch would NOT fit in my engine compartment at all!). You can buy them almost anywhere. But since so many auto parts counter people are complete idiots and want an exact application [I](and color of your car's paint sometimes, for spark plugs[/I]!) my buddy said if they ask what application you need this solenoid for, you just tell them it is for a Warn Winch. (Which told me I would be better off finding one at an RV parts dealer.) So, that's one way to remedy your problem. If you use the Continuous Duty solenoid, I'm told (by an expert) that there is no need to run a a battery isolator. As long as you (and I, too) make SURE to get a deep-cycle marine (or RV) battery as your stereo's new friend. BTW, I went with a freakin' $189 Optima battery, so that sucker better do the job! I hope this might have helped you or maybe steered you in the right direction. [/QUOTE]
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