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Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Deciphering sub specs to determine what is "better"?
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<blockquote data-quote="quackhead" data-source="post: 7902902" data-attributes="member: 573547"><p>that really is a good question. I look at the overall construction, try to pull up close up pics of the sub to look closely for things like stitched surrounds, cone material, visible cooling vents and surround material/construction. RMS wattage, frequency response, and VC configuration/construction is next. A glance at the TSP's to make sure the driver has sufficient xmax, Qts is ok for the box type, BL factor is glanced at, FS frequency, and efficiency. I try to find the most TSP data I can, any sub without readily available and sufficient Theale Small Parameters is automatically kicked to the curb...and then plug the TSP's into a program such as WINISD and model the box size and tune to see how the sub acts in the box I have in mind...and then play....look some more, play some more...and then pretty much just comes down to a particular combination of construction and good modeling performance.</p><p></p><p>Hang around here and ask questions about particular subs you are interested in to get a feel of how they handle power...just about any sub worth it's salt has been run through the ringer by someone here</p><p></p><p>a good example of the above..many people run 1,500 - 2000 watts rms to this sub in daily systems, but you might not know it without hanging out here..</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.americanbassusa.com/product.detail/product_id/157" target="_blank">American Bass - XFL1244</a></p><p></p><p>and it actually received a good performance review here:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/reports/268-test-report-american-bass-xfl1244-subwoofer" target="_blank">PASMAG | PERFORMANCE AUTO AND SOUND - American Bass XFL1244 Subwoofer</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="quackhead, post: 7902902, member: 573547"] that really is a good question. I look at the overall construction, try to pull up close up pics of the sub to look closely for things like stitched surrounds, cone material, visible cooling vents and surround material/construction. RMS wattage, frequency response, and VC configuration/construction is next. A glance at the TSP's to make sure the driver has sufficient xmax, Qts is ok for the box type, BL factor is glanced at, FS frequency, and efficiency. I try to find the most TSP data I can, any sub without readily available and sufficient Theale Small Parameters is automatically kicked to the curb...and then plug the TSP's into a program such as WINISD and model the box size and tune to see how the sub acts in the box I have in mind...and then play....look some more, play some more...and then pretty much just comes down to a particular combination of construction and good modeling performance. Hang around here and ask questions about particular subs you are interested in to get a feel of how they handle power...just about any sub worth it's salt has been run through the ringer by someone here a good example of the above..many people run 1,500 - 2000 watts rms to this sub in daily systems, but you might not know it without hanging out here.. [URL="http://www.americanbassusa.com/product.detail/product_id/157"]American Bass - XFL1244[/URL] and it actually received a good performance review here: [URL="http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/reports/268-test-report-american-bass-xfl1244-subwoofer"]PASMAG | PERFORMANCE AUTO AND SOUND - American Bass XFL1244 Subwoofer[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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Deciphering sub specs to determine what is "better"?
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