Reply to thread

Message: <blockquote data-quote="Moble Enclosurs" data-source="post: 7558281" data-attributes="member: 634917">Correct. Usually, with the electrical that is left over, you will get about 60-70% of the alternator amps to use for aftermarket. Say 60% to be safe. You have to figure for the amount of power the stock system will use. Say the amp is a 125A and the BATT is at 13V average with about 45Ah. You will be able to get about 585 watts from the batt and 975 watts from the alt. That is a total of  1560watts of supply (averaged). And then the amplifier will produce about 70% efficiency on average, so if the amp is 1500W@100% efficiency, then it will produce 1050w (averaged). So, the stock system will be able to handle this amp, but not much after that, maybe a 400W amp to the fronts it can handle as well. But not much more than that.You also have to check if the amps fuse is more than the amp will produce at peak to make sure the amp is a true power amplifier. Do this by using the amps power rating, such as say for example, 1500@1Ohm, and get the amperes. Which is  38.73A. So, that amp would need say (2) 25A fuses, or (2) 40s, for example. This will let you know that the power rating is somewhat acceptable. Other things like the transformers inside the amplifier will tell the tale better, but this is an idea of a good amp. So, say the amp has (2) 25A fuses, which means @1ohm, it can produce 2500Wpeak. Which is 1250rms or efficiently 875W continuous. This is very rough estimations, but good ballpark idea of what really goes on with power. obviously the wattage is not completely accurate, as voltage will tell the tale in a real test of the amp, but without knowing anything else about it, that is what you can gather from it respectively with a bit of ignorance on its actual ratings.Maybe that will help a bit on whether you will know if the amp is good enough for power and everything else.</blockquote>

Verification

Top

What's new

Forum list