Dash speaker/Impedence question

[Rch69]

Hello, I currently own a 2006 Dodge Magnum SRT8 I acquired last year. First thing I did was replace the head unit with a Pioneer 1330NEX, then I removed the factory Kicker Box and relocated dit to left rear using an MTX Thunderform, replaced the woofer with a Kicker 10” CompRT 1 ohm woofer, and 1ch Alpine running on own channel, and kept factory Kicker 2ch running factory speakers for time being, sounded ok.

Last month I replaced the 4 6x9’s with Infinity Kappas that are 2 ohm, replaced the dash 3.5’s with Infinity References that are 3 ohm, installed all in foam baffles, dynamatted everything around them.  Last week I purchased a Kenwood Excelon X301 4ch per local installer I’ve been using, and he said wouldn’t be an issue, I also upgraded the head unit to a Pioneer 4400NEX just because I wanted wireless CarPlay. Upon picking vehicle up, he said he couldn’t connect my dash speakers up due to impedance issue, the front channels connected in parallel would put amp at 1.2 ohms, and would damage it, and that the door speakers sounded so good that I didn’t need dash speakers, and I wouldn’t hear a difference, well, I do hear a difference.

I am looking for a workaround, or answer on how I can connect my dash speakers, it’s driving me nuts. Would I be better off using a small 2 channel amp, and splitting the front RCA’s into 2 different amps and going that route?  I listen mostly to metal, I like tight double bass, and highs somewhat bright, I do crank, but not max output. Also, I do pull out a lot of bass from the 6x9’s, and let the sub do most of the work as is.  Thank you in advance for the help.

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I would run a 2 ch amp to the dash speakers myself.I like power on every speaker. Helps clean them up from distortion and the ability to get the performance out of each speaker.I myself can hear a difference when a speaker isnt functioning/working and missing that part of the stage.I generally like rear fill as well as dash speakers for that surround sound affect/filling in the gap so to speak.It can sound amazing if set up properly.You prob will not need more than 20-40 watts per ch to get those to sound good rather than HU power that may create some distortion when cranked up. A small 2 ch amp will work just fine.You dont need anything massive for that staging.Ive placed one of these in my nephews truck on a pair of JBL tweets and fits just under the dash just fine.Its not a class D but works very well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-JBL-GX-A602-280-Watts-GX-Series-2-Channel-Class-AB-Car-Audio-Amplifier/151742731346?epid=2254402212&hash=item2354925452:g:QJsAAOSwE9lZuuQx:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!75189!US!-1:rk:103f:0

 

[Rch69]

Thank you very much for reply. Ok, that’s what I was thinking as well, and I imagine I can use a set of rca y jacks to share signal. Thanks for the link as well, looks like will work perfectly

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Thank you very much for reply. Ok, that’s what I was thinking as well, and I imagine I can use a set of rca y jacks to share signal. Thanks for the link as well, looks like will work perfectly

Absolutely. You can share the signal with RCA Ys and another set of RCAs,.Simple enough.You will need supply, ground, and remote and wiring to the dash speakers as well. A small amp kit of 8 ga will prob surfice for 40-75 x 2 rms.Will not take much power to make those dash speakers to perform, and be over bearing from the door speakers and blend in just fine.I place power on every speaker, always have.

 

[Rch69]

I ended up grabbing a Kenwood KAC-M1804, about same price and specs as the JBL link you sent.  And I agree on power to every speaker, was never a fan of speakers sharing a channel.  Thanks again for the advice and direction, everything is ordered and on the way.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I ended up grabbing a Kenwood KAC-M1804, about same price and specs as the JBL link you sent.  And I agree on power to every speaker, was never a fan of speakers sharing a channel.  Thanks again for the advice and direction, everything is ordered and on the way.

Let us know how it turns out. Always interested in knowing the final outcome.Thanks

 

[Rch69]

Ok, so new amp is installed, works beautifully, and I got my sound back. This new Kenwood M1804 does not have any gain settings what so ever, they were louder than the front door speakers when I first turned on, so I raised gain on the Excelon X301 controlling door speakers and compensated, I’m guessing that’s what’s its there for, to compensate.

Ok, so now upon reinstall, my reverse cam does not work. To come clean, Best Buy installed everything to date other than what I did today, and let me tell you, now I understand why to not let them ever touch a vehicle.  I am sure there are some awesome Best Buy installers out there, but apparently not where I live. When I got everything out and started looking, everything was hacked up pretty good, and I found a loose hot wire floating around not connected as well. Once I got my bearings and understood what was happening, I decided to clean it up. I used to install professionally 30 yrs ago, so I have somewhat a clue, just didn’t do the original install before because I didn’t understand how to bypass amp, can-bus, steering wheel controls, things have changed, but now I see how it all works.  So after noticing reverse cam didn’t work, I started wondering if that positive wire that was hot ignition on had anything to do with it. I back tracked and read that the green wire from the PAC RP4-CH11 harness connects to the reverse wire (violet/white) on the 4400NEX, but I do not see where the signal wire from the reverse lights connect lights, and cannot find one that was ran to the unit, it did work before I messed with. So how did Best Buy have wired with Ignition on wire? Apparently the reverse light wire I need is in kick panel, white/lt green, but where in equation does it connect?  Thanks again for helping me with adventure.

robert