Damp Pro and Foam roof before and after

Damplifier Pro and related CLD damping mats are not very good at stopping flex. Think about it, you can bend them with your fingers. How is that going to stiffen a roof?
Well if you add enough of it it adds enough weight to reinforce it right? I think if I added another layer where it still bends it would be really solid. Also doing this to my roof has helped keep outside noise out. I already had luxury liner pro on the floor and that helped a little and now this roof thing is helping even more.

 
Well if you add enough of it it adds enough weight to reinforce it right? I think if I added another layer where it still bends it would be really solid
No. If you have enough pressure building from your subs another thin layer of flimsy aluminum and butyl is not going to do that much to reduce flexing. What you're actually going to do is damp vibrations of the existing layer of CLD, which does not directly affect the roof. Diminishing returns.

Read this page, all of it. There is a note at the end about SPL applications that will make sense when you learn what CLD products like Damplifier Pro are engineered to do.

Car Stereo Applications | Sound Deadener Showdown

 
I've read that before. I know that using cld tiles isn't the best option to eliminate flex but I didn't feel like doing wooden braces. Simple as that. If my roof flexes more than I want once I get my amp in then I will paint the roof with fiberglass resin and see how that goes. I mean from what is shown in my video it's not like it did nothing but I do agree I could've went a more cost friendly route regarding flex stopping to spending ratio.

 
I've read that before. I know that using cld tiles isn't the best option to eliminate flex but I didn't feel like doing wooden braces. Simple as that. If my roof flexes more than I want once I get my amp in then I will paint the roof with fiberglass resin and see how that goes. I mean from what is shown in my video it's not like it did nothing but I do agree I could've went a more cost friendly route regarding flex stopping to spending ratio.
Have you tried doing bread rollers oon your deadener?

 
it provides a little bit more bracing then just flat applications. Did a side by side comparison when doing my minivan's doors today, they do work with the bracing.

I've actually seen that vid before and really it doesn't make sense to me.

Now some time this week I'm gonna be doing my doors. How do you guys think I should go about making the panels flex? Just fill them with foam?

 
I've actually seen that vid before and really it doesn't make sense to me.
Now some time this week I'm gonna be doing my doors. How do you guys think I should go about making the panels flex? Just fill them with foam?
Its just an artificial crossbrace using the aluminium part of the deadener itself. It works better then the deadener just spread flat. Its no where near a wooden crossbrace but its a lot better then just a flat sheet of CLD.

the technique is called making bread rollers with the deadener.

 
Yeah I know what it is it just doesn't make sense that putting less of the deadener on the roof makes it better just because its in the shape of a brace

 
Yeah I can't see that would help.. It's not bracing anything, it's deadener. You can put it in any shape you want it's not bracing a panel so making it shaped like a brace isn't changing that. Anyway deadener can def help roof flex, but it doesn't eliminate it.. It mostly drops the frequency that the roof moves on down. I prefer a mixture of bracing and deadening on the roof. Brace across the roof horizontally about 3-4 spots, depending on it's length then a layer of deadener in between your bracing. Double layering deadener is a huge waste.. I've done it myself, but it's a bad idea. Since your not touching metal you just deadening your deadener. 1 layer is enough.

Anyway bracing raises the frequency that flexes the roof higher. Deadener lowers it, but the combination lowers the actual amount of flex the roof will see down so much that the actual frequency it moves at doesn't matter anymore. Especially with 4 braces on a standard small to medium SUV roof. What i do is get 1/4inch wood so it'll bend to the roof countour, then glue it in place, then stack 1 or 2 more 1/4inch layers on top of that making a very stiff and strong 3/4 thick layer, it actually sets up and is stronger than 3/4 would would be of the same material, but it perfectly fits the roof.

 
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