Crunch 1800w 4ch: Wiring 2 subs and 2 door speakers to stock headunit.

[Rento]

I was wondering how I would go about wiring up this system...

Amplifier: Crunch P1800.4

Subs: Diamond Audio D3 10" 4ohm

Seakers: Diamond Audio D3 5.25" 4ohm.

Using a IEC AULOC converter to connect the RCA wires to the amp on my stock headunit.

Side note: My friend said he asked some co-workers are Best Buy about my setup and they said I could wire the RCA converter to the "rear speakers" for the subs since i'm not running rear speakers this way when I adjust the fade (or balance?) that I can technically adjust the volume for the subs? I don't know.

Anyways. I wasn't sure where to connect the RCA converter to the headunit? I'm guess I can just not use the stock connector on the harness in the middle and just use spade connectors on each tab and run the wires that way?

Than I don't know where to the wires for the speakers, like which channel, do I use one channel for both speakers, or do I use two? And than how I'm going to use 2 channels for the 2 subs and have 4 ohms? How do I bridge the channels? How many channels do I run?

Here's some pics? Maybe someone can wire it up on MS Paint? If it helps for me to get pics of the IEC AULOC, I can certainly do that too.

Thanks for any help!

P.S. the chart is upsidedown/backwards as opposed to the actual connections.

Click to read more...

 

[Atimm693 10+ year member]

Are you running any kind of rear speakers?

Take the LOC converter, and hook up the LF, RF. RR, LR to the corresponding wires on the headunit. The employee was correct in the way that you can fade the rear out if you want to turn the subs down.

What kind of outputs does the LOC have? If it only has one than you won't be able to fade, if it has 2 you can. It will for sure have one set for front, and if its advanced at all F/R and if it's really high end F/R and Sub. As you can see the amp has inputs for 1/2 and 3/4 channels.

To wire the speakers it will be best to just hook up each front speaker individually on 1/2 channels and do the same with the subs on 3/4.

 

[Rento]

Ummm the LOC just has a FR/FL, RR/RL, and 2 unused ground wires (I think...) It's like this one:

I posted a smiliar thread in a forum for VWs. I found this thread was active while I made mine. He has a similar system except it's a lot newer. The cetner connector is the exact same as mine as I pictured above...

If I can wire mine like his, than it will help a lot.

I just need to figure out where to tap into for my remote amp switch... Also, I want to give more power to my subs the spec says Power @ 4 Ohm: 900W x 2 which is pretty perfect for my subs which at 800 RMS if hooked up together... I know I will have to lower the output on the amp so I don't blow my subs though.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4718661

 

[Atimm693 10+ year member]

That converter looks to only have one RCA output, which will work fine but you won't be able to fade from F/R.

For the remote there should be an ACC wire that will have juice when the key is on. Get a test light or mulitimeter and check the power leads from the stereo until you find the one that has 12v when the key is on. It's red on some harnesses. There will be another wire with 12v on it all the time, don't hook it up to that.

Is the 900w max? That sounds a little far fetched to me.

 

[Rento]

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_19344_Crunch_P18004.aspx

Power @ 4 Ohm: 900W x 2

Power @ 2 Ohm: 450W x 4

Power @ 4 Ohm: 225W x 4

 

[Atimm693 10+ year member]

Are the subs 800 RMS each or together and are they dual voice coil? If they are you could bridge to 4 ohms, if not you can only do 225w per sub. You can't bridge at 2 ohms.

 

[Oneswtredhead 10+ year member]

divide those ratings by 2 i just looked on their website they are rated dynamically not rms when i emailed them they said to divide all ratings by 2 and add 10% for true rms power.