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Critique my system and suggest some speakers...
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<blockquote data-quote="Jandry" data-source="post: 8346529" data-attributes="member: 664430"><p>Ok, ill cut the c3 series from my list. I had no idea that class a/b amps were better for midbass- from reading it seems the consensus is the damping results in better midbass? I have come to realize that class D have only even become viable for mids and highs in the last few years.. I thought that the main issue with class D's was the noise introduced due to being digital, and that this had been greatly reduced as the newer tech made the noise only really audible in frequency ranges beyond the human range of hearing.</p><p></p><p>The only issue I have is where to put that amp. It wouldnt fit under my seats, so my only option would be to mount it on top of the sub box. I wonder if any of these a/b amps can be mounted vertically? I have a great spot where the drop seat used to be- I could install a computer fan to direct air out (since id be hiding the amp with a cover).</p><p></p><p>Yeah, ill be doing all the tricks I use when doing electrical on a vehicle. I dont rig anything- I solder, shrink tube, grease where necessary, etc. No shortcuts on my part..</p><p></p><p>Never heard of it- Ill make sure to check it out. I am going to start a thread on one of the ranger forums and see if I can get sage advice for the door prep/vehicle dynamatting part. Ive helped a few guys wire stereos (they needed the electrical help), and I have found that the best sounding setups (by far) were the ones where the doors were sealed and the car was properly deadened.</p><p></p><p>Another vote for the Imagines. What I need to do now is see if I can find a place that has them. The biggest thing that concerns me is whether they will fit in my door with the tweeter mounted coaxial. Ford has the 5x7 speakers, so ill have to fabricate an adapter from mdf board- this is no issue except it pushes the speaker out, and the door panel is already close. I might have to just say to hell with stealth and mount the tweeters in the door panel.</p><p></p><p>This is my issue- if I go with a class a/b amp on a sub in the back and tweeters in the door, Im sort of making it obvious I have money in the system. My original goal was to run a system as good as possible while keeping it relatively hidden. I know the JL C5's will fit- they can be run active, they have great passives in the interim, and they are supposed to have soft tweeters- theyre also $500 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif If I cant stuff the imagines in, I could just wait longer and go for the C5s..</p><p></p><p>Anyways, great advice here and ill take it to the bank. Gonna go find a place that has Imagines and see what I can do. Thanks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jandry, post: 8346529, member: 664430"] Ok, ill cut the c3 series from my list. I had no idea that class a/b amps were better for midbass- from reading it seems the consensus is the damping results in better midbass? I have come to realize that class D have only even become viable for mids and highs in the last few years.. I thought that the main issue with class D's was the noise introduced due to being digital, and that this had been greatly reduced as the newer tech made the noise only really audible in frequency ranges beyond the human range of hearing. The only issue I have is where to put that amp. It wouldnt fit under my seats, so my only option would be to mount it on top of the sub box. I wonder if any of these a/b amps can be mounted vertically? I have a great spot where the drop seat used to be- I could install a computer fan to direct air out (since id be hiding the amp with a cover). Yeah, ill be doing all the tricks I use when doing electrical on a vehicle. I dont rig anything- I solder, shrink tube, grease where necessary, etc. No shortcuts on my part.. Never heard of it- Ill make sure to check it out. I am going to start a thread on one of the ranger forums and see if I can get sage advice for the door prep/vehicle dynamatting part. Ive helped a few guys wire stereos (they needed the electrical help), and I have found that the best sounding setups (by far) were the ones where the doors were sealed and the car was properly deadened. Another vote for the Imagines. What I need to do now is see if I can find a place that has them. The biggest thing that concerns me is whether they will fit in my door with the tweeter mounted coaxial. Ford has the 5x7 speakers, so ill have to fabricate an adapter from mdf board- this is no issue except it pushes the speaker out, and the door panel is already close. I might have to just say to hell with stealth and mount the tweeters in the door panel. This is my issue- if I go with a class a/b amp on a sub in the back and tweeters in the door, Im sort of making it obvious I have money in the system. My original goal was to run a system as good as possible while keeping it relatively hidden. I know the JL C5's will fit- they can be run active, they have great passives in the interim, and they are supposed to have soft tweeters- theyre also $500 [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif[/IMG] If I cant stuff the imagines in, I could just wait longer and go for the C5s.. Anyways, great advice here and ill take it to the bank. Gonna go find a place that has Imagines and see what I can do. Thanks [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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