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Subwoofers
Couple ?'s on sub choice...I've done some research
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8476432" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>[quote name='Sguirrelfeather']Ok, guys, I realize I&#39;m not running anything extreme. I know 500W isn&#39;t a lot of power for a sub. I&#39;m not building for competition. This is my daily driver and I like to listen to music...sometimes loud. I know lots of low end subs will handle 500W. So maybe I needed to be a little more clear with my questions.</p><p></p><p>I&#39;m wanting to upgrade my subs to something that will have no problem handling the power I currently have with no worries of it tearing the surrounds again, or of blowing it in other ways. I&#39;ve been looking at SS, Sound Qubed, Sundowner, FI, and a couple others. I know they&#39;re all quality compared to "major" name brands like Rockford, JL, etc, so that&#39;s not my concern. What I&#39;m wondering....a couple things actually...is if I pump, for example, 500W into my current sub, which has 91dB sensitivity, and get 110dB, would I need to put in more wattage into one of these to get the same volume, considering most of these have low to mid 80"s on their sensitivity. See, I don&#39;t want to upgrade the sub only to find out I&#39;m going to need a new amp because it&#39;s no longer as loud as my old setup.</p><p></p><p>As for my DD question...they don&#39;t list a sensitivity. Are they comparable to these other brands in sensitivity?</p><p></p><p>kr15, the dcon shows a 400W RMS rating. Did you mean another speaker, or are these known to be under-rated?</p><p></p><p>Trillest11, I know what a Tline is, but why are you recommending that? From what I understand, that design really works best for med size cabins. I&#39;ve got an Excursion....I could fit an entire car inside my cabin. lol Are you saying the Tline would work well for a large cabin?</p></blockquote><p></p><p>subwoofer sensitivity specs are thrown out the window most of the times because they dont have a proper uniformed method of testing for it, you got a lot of bogus claims and you got subs that prove otherwise in real world applications. Sensitivity is reserved for when you are looking at speakers and tweeters, its not a spec you necessarily look for in a sub. You look at the TS specs and model the woofer out in a program called WinISD and see projected SPL based on enclosure design and power input.</p><p></p><p>T lines work well in any car. [USER=660529]@CSCStang[/USER] has an 8 in a t-line in his sequoia. T-lines, 4th orders, 6th orders are very efficent boxes vs sealed or ported.</p><p></p><p>For 500 watts, T line is the key</p><p></p><p>This is two soundqubed hds208s in a T line on less than 400 watts total </p><p></p><p><strong><u><a href="https://vid.me/DIQz" target="_blank">https://vid.me/DIQz</a></u></strong></p><p></p><p>If you have an excursion, a single HDS 215 in a T line should work fine.</p><p></p><p>Or a dayton audio classic 18 ported. You need cone area if you have a big cabin to pressurize and not enough power to do so.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dcs450-4-18-classic-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-475" target="_blank">http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dcs450-4-18-classic-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-475</a></p><p></p><p>dont be fooled by the 300 rms rating, its a 3 inch coil, double to 1k rms on that easy.</p><p>[/QUOTE]</p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8476432, member: 650438"] [quote name='Sguirrelfeather']Ok, guys, I realize I'm not running anything extreme. I know 500W isn't a lot of power for a sub. I'm not building for competition. This is my daily driver and I like to listen to music...sometimes loud. I know lots of low end subs will handle 500W. So maybe I needed to be a little more clear with my questions. I'm wanting to upgrade my subs to something that will have no problem handling the power I currently have with no worries of it tearing the surrounds again, or of blowing it in other ways. I've been looking at SS, Sound Qubed, Sundowner, FI, and a couple others. I know they're all quality compared to "major" name brands like Rockford, JL, etc, so that's not my concern. What I'm wondering....a couple things actually...is if I pump, for example, 500W into my current sub, which has 91dB sensitivity, and get 110dB, would I need to put in more wattage into one of these to get the same volume, considering most of these have low to mid 80"s on their sensitivity. See, I don't want to upgrade the sub only to find out I'm going to need a new amp because it's no longer as loud as my old setup. As for my DD question...they don't list a sensitivity. Are they comparable to these other brands in sensitivity? kr15, the dcon shows a 400W RMS rating. Did you mean another speaker, or are these known to be under-rated? Trillest11, I know what a Tline is, but why are you recommending that? From what I understand, that design really works best for med size cabins. I've got an Excursion....I could fit an entire car inside my cabin. lol Are you saying the Tline would work well for a large cabin?[/QUOTE] subwoofer sensitivity specs are thrown out the window most of the times because they dont have a proper uniformed method of testing for it, you got a lot of bogus claims and you got subs that prove otherwise in real world applications. Sensitivity is reserved for when you are looking at speakers and tweeters, its not a spec you necessarily look for in a sub. You look at the TS specs and model the woofer out in a program called WinISD and see projected SPL based on enclosure design and power input. T lines work well in any car. [USER=660529]@CSCStang[/USER] has an 8 in a t-line in his sequoia. T-lines, 4th orders, 6th orders are very efficent boxes vs sealed or ported. For 500 watts, T line is the key This is two soundqubed hds208s in a T line on less than 400 watts total [B][U][url]https://vid.me/DIQz[/url][/U][/B] If you have an excursion, a single HDS 215 in a T line should work fine. Or a dayton audio classic 18 ported. You need cone area if you have a big cabin to pressurize and not enough power to do so. [url]http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dcs450-4-18-classic-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-475[/url] dont be fooled by the 300 rms rating, its a 3 inch coil, double to 1k rms on that easy. [/QUOTE]
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Couple ?'s on sub choice...I've done some research
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