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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 6981649" data-attributes="member: 576029">note that most bi-amp capable crossovers (separate woofer and tweeter inputs) come with a jumper so they can be fed from one wire pair.&nbsp; they are just more flexible and bi-amping allows for separate time alignment, level control, active processing, EQ, etc.i recommend bridging the amp channels 1-4 to the front components.&nbsp; set the gain so you don&#039;t damage the front speakers, but the extra power on tap will improve sound quality.&nbsp; they won&#039;t ever see 200W but they will be louder with less distortion then they have now.&nbsp; You can set your gains so they can only see a peak of 100W RMS if you want.ditch the Audiopipe rear speakers and spend the money you have on a better pair of rear speakers.&nbsp; buy some rear Type-S components so you can locate the tweeter where the rear passengers can hear it.i avoid coaxial whenever it&#039;s feasible.&nbsp; i do see a time and place for them occasionally.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 6981649, member: 576029"] note that most bi-amp capable crossovers (separate woofer and tweeter inputs) come with a jumper so they can be fed from one wire pair. they are just more flexible and bi-amping allows for separate time alignment, level control, active processing, EQ, etc. i recommend bridging the amp channels 1-4 to the front components. set the gain so you don't damage the front speakers, but the extra power on tap will improve sound quality. they won't ever see 200W but they will be louder with less distortion then they have now. You can set your gains so they can only see a peak of 100W RMS if you want. ditch the Audiopipe rear speakers and spend the money you have on a better pair of rear speakers. buy some rear Type-S components so you can locate the tweeter where the rear passengers can hear it. i avoid coaxial whenever it's feasible. i do see a time and place for them occasionally. [/QUOTE]

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