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Closed Cell Foam from Home Depot....
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<blockquote data-quote="FoxPro5" data-source="post: 5026130" data-attributes="member: 562649"><p>Back in the day, I used that ^^^ exact waterproof padding behind the drivers in my doors. The only way it works is by diffusing the rearwave of the speaker only at certain frequencies (it's not broadband). Basically, the frequencies wavelengths must be higher than 1/4 of the distance between peak and trough of the dimples of the foam. In other words, if that distance is 1/2", then the wavelength can be no greater than 2". As an estimation, you're looking at full diffusion at about 6.7khz and above. No midrange that I know of will play that high.</p><p></p><p>If you do hear a difference before and after installing something like that, what's most likely happening is that you've diffused the upper harmonics (3rd, 4th order) in the back wave. This will only happen if you have not put that driver on a proper baffle. So, in reality, it's a band aid.</p><p></p><p>Since closed cell foam in general has low porosity (the camping pad is waterproof) it will not absorb sound waves (nor will it absorb water).</p><p></p><p>The moral of the story is to save your $12 and your time and invest both into making a proper baffle for the speaker, instead. A proper baffle is not a generic speaker ring; it should properly separate the front wave from the rear wave and effectively convert the rear wave to heat.</p><p></p><p>Since I absolutely hate MDF with a passion, my suggestion is to use something dense, rigid and durable for the environment. HDPE (aka cutting board plastic) is probabably the easiest to find in multiple thicknessess and the easiest to work with. It's way more dense than MDF and will serve to be a better baffle material in the long run.</p><p></p><p>The PSA-backed foam in the OP is best used as a gasket to mechanically isolate two surfaces from each other where rattling occurs. But, again you can save your money and just buy some weather stripping, IMHO.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="FoxPro5, post: 5026130, member: 562649"] Back in the day, I used that ^^^ exact waterproof padding behind the drivers in my doors. The only way it works is by diffusing the rearwave of the speaker only at certain frequencies (it's not broadband). Basically, the frequencies wavelengths must be higher than 1/4 of the distance between peak and trough of the dimples of the foam. In other words, if that distance is 1/2", then the wavelength can be no greater than 2". As an estimation, you're looking at full diffusion at about 6.7khz and above. No midrange that I know of will play that high. If you do hear a difference before and after installing something like that, what's most likely happening is that you've diffused the upper harmonics (3rd, 4th order) in the back wave. This will only happen if you have not put that driver on a proper baffle. So, in reality, it's a band aid. Since closed cell foam in general has low porosity (the camping pad is waterproof) it will not absorb sound waves (nor will it absorb water). The moral of the story is to save your $12 and your time and invest both into making a proper baffle for the speaker, instead. A proper baffle is not a generic speaker ring; it should properly separate the front wave from the rear wave and effectively convert the rear wave to heat. Since I absolutely hate MDF with a passion, my suggestion is to use something dense, rigid and durable for the environment. HDPE (aka cutting board plastic) is probabably the easiest to find in multiple thicknessess and the easiest to work with. It's way more dense than MDF and will serve to be a better baffle material in the long run. The PSA-backed foam in the OP is best used as a gasket to mechanically isolate two surfaces from each other where rattling occurs. But, again you can save your money and just buy some weather stripping, IMHO. [/QUOTE]
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