capacitor problem

ok i was taking an old amp out and replacing it with a new one. i was in a rush so i didn't take out the fuse. i accidentally grounded out and blew the fuse under my hood. i went and bought new ones and replaced the blown fuse. now my capacitor is flashing 000 and i am getting no power to my amp

the capaitor is kind of a shitty one but it does the trick. the capacitor is a scosche 1.7 fara

 
ok this is my audio equipment and keep in mind this is in a little dodge spirit winter beater i have 2 pioneer premier spl's 12" with a sledge hammer angle cut box and a alpine V-12 amp my goal for the winter beater which is gunna be the wifes car is to put a alpine type-E 12" sub.. now with the 2 pioneers i get votage dips and the alternator starts to scream how do i also get rid of that problem and or will i have the same problem when i put the single alpine in ????? thanks for helping me too guys

 
ok this is my audio equipment and keep in mind this is in a little dodge spirit winter beater i have 2 pioneer premier spl's 12" with a sledge hammer angle cut box and a alpine V-12 amp my goal for the winter beater which is gunna be the wifes car is to put a alpine type-E 12" sub.. now with the 2 pioneers i get votage dips and the alternator starts to scream how do i also get rid of that problem and or will i have the same problem when i put the single alpine in ????? thanks for helping me too guys
My advice for the current power your runnung is upgrade to a better front battery. Maybe an optima or something. Also whats the specs on the amp, because it sound like your alternator is under too much stress.

 
alpine MRV-1400 Amplifier Specifications

Power Output: RMS Continuous Power (at 12.0V, 20 Hz to 20 kHz)

Per Channel into 4 ohms - 200W - 0.08% THD

Per Channel into 2 ohms - 400W - 0.3% THD

Bridged into 4 ohms - 800W - 0.3% THD

Dynamic Power (at 14.4V, 20 Hz to 20 kHz)

Per Channel into 4 ohms - 250W - 0.08% THD

Per Channel into 2 ohms - 500W - 0.3% THD

Bridged into 4 ohms - 1000W - 0.3% THD

Frequency Response - 8 Hz to 60 kHz - (+0, -1 dB)

Signal-to-Noise Ratio - 125 dBA - (referenced to rated power)

Slew factor - Greater than 5

Input Sensitivity (for rated power ouput) - 200mV to 4.0V (1.0V a center detent)

Input Impedance - 10k ohms

Speaker Impedance - 4 or 2 ohms (Stereo), 4 ohms (Bridged)

Active Dividing Network Frequency and Slope - 50 to 200 Hz, 12 dB per octave

Power Requirement - 11 - 16VDC Negative Ground

Dimensions (W x H x D) - 240mm x 53mm x 330mm (9-7/16" x 2-16" x 13")

 
Wow 400rms at 2 ohms and your dimming with alternator whine? Your cap is killing your electric. Thrash beat it kill it. Get a front battery or do the big 3 (my best advice, do both) and you will be fine. I still cant believe 400rms with alternator whine, what size is it?

 
maybe bad alt too...with that little amount of draw its crazy to have dimming..unless its a very small alt..in my gf car now i have 500 watts and it really dont dim the lights...do the big 3 upgrade..start with that..if it continues..do the 2nd batt in the trunk..but in either case..get rid of the cap..

 
can't remember off hand umm what the hell is the big three that is the second person that said that ???????
1st..run a wire 4g or 0g from the pos lead of your alt to you pos of the front batt..

2nd..run a wire from the neg of your batt and ground it to your chassi/frame of the car

3rd...run a wire from your batt to the block

 
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