Cadence CWM6's blown already? heard poping, tweets cut out, speakers got quiet...

[kturbo420 10+ year member]

Hey guys I recently put a set of Cadence CWM6 6.5" components in my integra and the other day I heard a POP from the drivers when I had a song up to 3/4, it would just play like that, everytime a bassnote would hit in the subs, it was like the speakers would pop with it, like it was blown or overextending or something.

The tweeters just arent making any aubile music at all that I can hear with my ear up close. Only coming from the doors.

Like my rear cadence FX shitty coaxials are playing louder than the front stage and the settings are even and the coaxials are run off the HU.

The front stage is pushed by a walmart Dual P4000 i think, rated for 175rms @ 4ohm X 2 when bridged I think (its close to that @ 4 ohm anyways) and the gains werent even 1/2 way up with xover on the HU @ 80hz and the amp set on high pass....

If I turn the gains down to nothing, the speakers play pretty quiet (like I said I was playing like now until I fix the problem) and there is no popping, but they must be seeing next to nothing for wattage..

Any ideas on what the solution might be?

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[Fiercetimbo17 10+ year member]

sounds like it was bottoming out hardcore, and yes you probably blew them. How long did you let it play like that for

 

[bad @SS chevy 10+ year member]

I bought a pair of cw6 cadence's off ebay.. Mine did the same thing,, the first song i played, they were bottoming out , tweeters popping. worst set of speakers ive ever heard

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

maybe turn up the highpass filter if there bottoming out so much?

 

[kturbo420 10+ year member]

Thats the thing, I must have had them highpassed at like 100hz based on knob position, and the gains were very moderate, they used to sound perfect, they played like that for about 1/4 song before they made that pop

Sucks to hear it happened to someone else, Id like it to be fixed if possible or find out if it was my amp that did it.

Thanks

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

Sounds like user error, I installed a set in my buddy's car with 150rms per side with no problems...They have a high Qts so a steep slope is required so they don't bottom out...

 

[kturbo420 10+ year member]

Well I have zero slope at all on them and even at -24db they still made the noise on moderate volume and gain. Dont know if its them bottoming out or just being blown or trying to play the wrong note, Was hoping I might be able to fix/check

I did look today, gave them about 70-80rms and the volume to 1/2 and they made the noise when the bass notes hit, I cracked off my grill and the woofers are only moving maybe 1/5", I doubt thats bottoming them out

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

Well I have zero slope at all on them and even at -24db they still made the noise on moderate volume and gain. Dont know if its them bottoming out or just being blown or trying to play the wrong note, Was hoping I might be able to fix/check
I did look today, gave them about 70-80rms and the volume to 1/2 and they made the noise when the bass notes hit, I cracked off my grill and the woofers are only moving maybe 1/5", I doubt thats bottoming them out

Zero slope? That would be NO crossover my friend....I think there is some confusion. By steep slope I mean the CROSSOVER slope. Your average deck has a 6db/octave slope. Average amps have between 6-12db/octave slopes. A STEEP slope would be something like 24-36dB/octave. I usually don't like using these cause they tend to sound unnatural depending on how they are implemented, but sometimes they are necessary to protect the driver...
You probably already caused damage to them, which is why you are hearing noise even at moderate volume levels...check the tinsel leads. You may have unglued the tinsel leads from the spider, causing them to slap against the cone...

 

[kturbo420 10+ year member]

oh, well yeah like I said crossover was set between 80-100hz

 

[seedubs1 10+ year member]

So he played them with a 0 dB/Octave slope.....Unloaded them and slammed the former into the back plate. The former and coil are probably all out of alignment and deformed.

I'm betting those drivers are gone. Good thing they're only $75.

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

So he played them with a 0 dB/Octave slope.....Unloaded them and slammed the former into the back plate. The former and coil are probably all out of alignment and deformed.
I'm betting those drivers are gone. Good thing they're only $75.

Those were my initial thoughts...
Got a warranty?

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

Sounds like user error, I installed a set in my buddy's car with 150rms per side with no problems...They have a high Qts so a steep slope is required so they don't bottom out...

how high is the qts on them?

my rsd mids have a pretty high qts of .68 and i have run them with now high-pass and they didn't care at all. didn't sound super clean at high volumes, but no bottoming out.

maybe these cadence speakers are a little more fragile.

 

[seedubs1 10+ year member]

Those were my initial thoughts...
Got a warranty?

**** that. He shouldn't get warranty on them. It was his fault. He set the crossover wrong, and probably the gains as well, and ****ed up the component set.

If I were Cadence, I would tell him it was his own fault. It wasn't a manufacturing defect.

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

how high is the qts on them?
my rsd mids have a pretty high qts of .68 and i have run them with now high-pass and they didn't care at all. didn't sound super clean at high volumes, but no bottoming out.

maybe these cadence speakers are a little more fragile.

Its also dependent on how the QTS is derived from the electrical and mechanical components...
A high QTS denotes high QMS and/or QES...which means low mechanical strength (soft suspension) and/or low motor strength (tiny magnet)....

You can compare QTS values on the fly, but generally it won't be enough to determine just how well they will perform in the real world //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif