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Build help what am i missing?!
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8667825" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>the two audiocontrol idea is dog sh*t idk why anyone would ever suggest that unless they are living under a rock for the past 10 years. Stick with your DSP idea. I'd take out the kicker dome tweeters, they will do more harm than good, just like its a horrible idea to mix match sub brands and sizes, you dont want to mix match tweeters as well because sound waves produced are different and will either join and become distortion or cancel each other out, aka it'll sound like complete sh*t. Those beymas should be more than loud and enough and sound good if you properly use the DSP crossovers, cross high like 8khz or so to tame the usual 5-7khz peak super tweeters have. If you have a DSP, you dont need any clarion crossover so take that out of the equation as well. If you haven't bought the alpine amps yet, get a monoblock and run both subs off a single big amp.</p><p></p><p>What I'd recommend is swapping out 4 of those faital pros for dedicated midbass monsters because those faital pros dont really handle midbass all that well and to have a good sounding system, you definitely want strong meaty midbass. Make sure behind the doors, you seal off the midrange from the midbass with some kind of enclosure or foam pod. You'll let the midbass take up the whole door's airspace for its enclosure to increase overall midbass performance. You'll bridging the a 4 channel to the midbass, bridging a 4 channel to the midrange and bridging one for the tweeters. Your audiocontrol dsp should have more than enough channels to do a 3 way active network setup plus subwoofer. </p><p></p><p>If you want to save money and dont care for factory head unit features, you can get a dayton audio dsp for 150 and a dayton bluetooth dongle for 30 dollars more. You stream audio straight from your phone bluetooth to the dsp without needing to splice into any thing from the factory head unit. The audio will be way cleaner than if you do high level inputs or RCA inputs. All tuning will be done on your smart phone app. Only drawback to this is no bluetooth calling while driving however audio results will be superb.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8667825, member: 650438"] the two audiocontrol idea is dog sh*t idk why anyone would ever suggest that unless they are living under a rock for the past 10 years. Stick with your DSP idea. I'd take out the kicker dome tweeters, they will do more harm than good, just like its a horrible idea to mix match sub brands and sizes, you dont want to mix match tweeters as well because sound waves produced are different and will either join and become distortion or cancel each other out, aka it'll sound like complete sh*t. Those beymas should be more than loud and enough and sound good if you properly use the DSP crossovers, cross high like 8khz or so to tame the usual 5-7khz peak super tweeters have. If you have a DSP, you dont need any clarion crossover so take that out of the equation as well. If you haven't bought the alpine amps yet, get a monoblock and run both subs off a single big amp. What I'd recommend is swapping out 4 of those faital pros for dedicated midbass monsters because those faital pros dont really handle midbass all that well and to have a good sounding system, you definitely want strong meaty midbass. Make sure behind the doors, you seal off the midrange from the midbass with some kind of enclosure or foam pod. You'll let the midbass take up the whole door's airspace for its enclosure to increase overall midbass performance. You'll bridging the a 4 channel to the midbass, bridging a 4 channel to the midrange and bridging one for the tweeters. Your audiocontrol dsp should have more than enough channels to do a 3 way active network setup plus subwoofer. If you want to save money and dont care for factory head unit features, you can get a dayton audio dsp for 150 and a dayton bluetooth dongle for 30 dollars more. You stream audio straight from your phone bluetooth to the dsp without needing to splice into any thing from the factory head unit. The audio will be way cleaner than if you do high level inputs or RCA inputs. All tuning will be done on your smart phone app. Only drawback to this is no bluetooth calling while driving however audio results will be superb. [/QUOTE]
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