Yewzer Nayme
Junior Member
I have a 2013 Ford Flex with an entirely stock, non Sony, Sync system. I do not wish to replace the stock HU so I am going into this knowing I have to content with an integrated factory device. I have installed an old RF 501x, but it isn't pushing anything yet.
I started this thing out thinking I would just toss a sub in the car and that would be it...but now I've decided to go ahead and do the whole car. However, I am on a shoe string budget right now. Of course I'm like everyone else and I want the best I can get for my money. That said, here is my current plan. Keep in mind my focus is not on absolute volume, though I do enjoy playin it loud when I'm in the car alone. I want very clean sound, I want solid midbass for the bass drums and very tight lows that can keep up with the music. I am not trying to make the doors flex with the beat, I just want really clear accurate sound that I can crank up without it puking.
HU: stock
Processor: DQ-61 or a JL CleanSweep
Center Channel: Dayton ND90-4 3-1/2 - Powered by the HU
Front Components: RSD6CS
Rear Door: Some good coax 5x7's? that will give good fill and midbass
Mid-High Amp: RF 501x
Sub Amp: No Idea Yet
Sub: again, no clue
I know a processor kinda sounds like a big expense for a small budget but I just can't justify improving the system if the signal from the HU isn't cleaned up and balanced back out. I would rather pay for the Clean Sweep but the DQ-61 has more features, like a nice handy amp turn on signal that my factory HU lacks, more on that later. It also does timing adjustments for staging, which I am not sure would even work right with the center channel between the two running off, and timed, by the HU. The clean sweep doesn't have a sub channel but I could pull the signal from the RF amp, it has an RCA signal pass that I could send to the sub amp. But then the DQ-61 would do that and add a crossover to it. So I dunno what I need.
About the amp turn on lead. I was only able to find a pair of ignition switched wires in the factory harness, and they were both 6V. I do not know the minimum voltage required by this amp for it to sense turn on. I experimented a bit and was able to trigger the amp turn on with a brand new 9V battery showing 9.75V on a meter. It was interesting but it isn't 6V, I am unwilling to cut into those leads on the harness unless I know for a fact that it will work. Minimum invasion of existing construction. I have considered trying to find ignition switched 12V off of one of the many in car outlets but I am not sure I will need it (DQ-61) nor am I sure those lines behave like the radio turn on leads do. If anyone knows of a good source, I am open to suggestions.
My front component choice is based entirely on reading I've done other places, I have never heard them personally so if they are crap please tell me. Same with the Dayton I am considering for the center channel. I am open to suggestions for a good solid set of 5x7's for the rear doors, just some coax's that will use the amp power to really put out the midbass back there.
That leaves the sub amp combo. Which is ironic because this started with an amp just needing a sub. I think I am going to put in a single 10 in a sealed box. I have a pretty good sized cargo area so I 'could' go with a 12, but I am hoping I can get away with the 10 so I can take advantage of the tighter faster speaker. I don't need crazy volume, this isn't a SPL car, I guess its a little bit SPL, little bit SQL, a lot bit daily driver on a tony budget.
Thoughts anyone?
I started this thing out thinking I would just toss a sub in the car and that would be it...but now I've decided to go ahead and do the whole car. However, I am on a shoe string budget right now. Of course I'm like everyone else and I want the best I can get for my money. That said, here is my current plan. Keep in mind my focus is not on absolute volume, though I do enjoy playin it loud when I'm in the car alone. I want very clean sound, I want solid midbass for the bass drums and very tight lows that can keep up with the music. I am not trying to make the doors flex with the beat, I just want really clear accurate sound that I can crank up without it puking.
HU: stock
Processor: DQ-61 or a JL CleanSweep
Center Channel: Dayton ND90-4 3-1/2 - Powered by the HU
Front Components: RSD6CS
Rear Door: Some good coax 5x7's? that will give good fill and midbass
Mid-High Amp: RF 501x
Sub Amp: No Idea Yet
Sub: again, no clue
I know a processor kinda sounds like a big expense for a small budget but I just can't justify improving the system if the signal from the HU isn't cleaned up and balanced back out. I would rather pay for the Clean Sweep but the DQ-61 has more features, like a nice handy amp turn on signal that my factory HU lacks, more on that later. It also does timing adjustments for staging, which I am not sure would even work right with the center channel between the two running off, and timed, by the HU. The clean sweep doesn't have a sub channel but I could pull the signal from the RF amp, it has an RCA signal pass that I could send to the sub amp. But then the DQ-61 would do that and add a crossover to it. So I dunno what I need.
About the amp turn on lead. I was only able to find a pair of ignition switched wires in the factory harness, and they were both 6V. I do not know the minimum voltage required by this amp for it to sense turn on. I experimented a bit and was able to trigger the amp turn on with a brand new 9V battery showing 9.75V on a meter. It was interesting but it isn't 6V, I am unwilling to cut into those leads on the harness unless I know for a fact that it will work. Minimum invasion of existing construction. I have considered trying to find ignition switched 12V off of one of the many in car outlets but I am not sure I will need it (DQ-61) nor am I sure those lines behave like the radio turn on leads do. If anyone knows of a good source, I am open to suggestions.
My front component choice is based entirely on reading I've done other places, I have never heard them personally so if they are crap please tell me. Same with the Dayton I am considering for the center channel. I am open to suggestions for a good solid set of 5x7's for the rear doors, just some coax's that will use the amp power to really put out the midbass back there.
That leaves the sub amp combo. Which is ironic because this started with an amp just needing a sub. I think I am going to put in a single 10 in a sealed box. I have a pretty good sized cargo area so I 'could' go with a 12, but I am hoping I can get away with the 10 so I can take advantage of the tighter faster speaker. I don't need crazy volume, this isn't a SPL car, I guess its a little bit SPL, little bit SQL, a lot bit daily driver on a tony budget.
Thoughts anyone?
