Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
Bracing MDF
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8864959" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>The port and the subs should be on the same side (Yes, that is the speaker baffle). This allows the sub and the port to couple acoustically. In instances where you can't, then the opposite wall would be the next best thing. 2 evenly spaced (unlike the picture) braces should be placed equidistant from the middle and sides internal internal braces would be fine. Like this (but spaced as noted and with the sub placement in mind, at least one in the middle):</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]55112[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>1 large flared round port is best as it is poses the least friction for moving the air and the dual flares like a Precision port or aero port, reduce chuffing (wind noise or farting) <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /></p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.parts-express.com/Precision-Port-6-Flared-Port-Tube-Kit-268-354?quantity=1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20348422537&utm_content=149685098334&gadid=664791143238&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAvdCrBhBREiwAX6-6Uu365xapSduCZwmK3msH6P5uYnr8CP_sLXm5YclH_k8eNnvbw0vsghoCv_UQAvD_BwE[/URL]</p><p></p><p>For the two of the BlackBrick subs you're going to use tune to 32Hz:</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://blackbrickaudio.com/products/brickhouse-12[/URL]</p><p></p><p>The following measurements' include considerations for the woofer, port and brace displacements.</p><p></p><p>Slot loaded box:</p><p></p><p>4"Wx10"Hx14"D slot loaded box:</p><p></p><p>You'll need a 5.75 internal cubic feet. I always recommend a 3/4 inch roundover edge on the extremal port area.</p><p></p><p>6"Dx10"L Round flared precision port port box:</p><p></p><p>You'll need a 5.5 internal cubic foot box.</p><p></p><p>For determining how to cut the port length, follow these guideline.</p><p></p><p>* - The value for Flare Length Port Required is the overall length of the flared port. If you specified more than one port for the Number of Ports value the Flare Length Port Required value will be for each port.</p><p></p><p>* - For the 6" Precision Ports cut the center tube 6 inches shorter than the Flare Length Port Required value.</p><p></p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]http://www.psp-inc.com/tools2.html[/URL]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8864959, member: 689267"] The port and the subs should be on the same side (Yes, that is the speaker baffle). This allows the sub and the port to couple acoustically. In instances where you can't, then the opposite wall would be the next best thing. 2 evenly spaced (unlike the picture) braces should be placed equidistant from the middle and sides internal internal braces would be fine. Like this (but spaced as noted and with the sub placement in mind, at least one in the middle): [ATTACH type="full" alt="1702154469621.png"]55112[/ATTACH] 1 large flared round port is best as it is poses the least friction for moving the air and the dual flares like a Precision port or aero port, reduce chuffing (wind noise or farting) ;) [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.parts-express.com/Precision-Port-6-Flared-Port-Tube-Kit-268-354?quantity=1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20348422537&utm_content=149685098334&gadid=664791143238&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAvdCrBhBREiwAX6-6Uu365xapSduCZwmK3msH6P5uYnr8CP_sLXm5YclH_k8eNnvbw0vsghoCv_UQAvD_BwE[/URL] For the two of the BlackBrick subs you're going to use tune to 32Hz: [URL unfurl="true"]https://blackbrickaudio.com/products/brickhouse-12[/URL] The following measurements' include considerations for the woofer, port and brace displacements. Slot loaded box: 4"Wx10"Hx14"D slot loaded box: You'll need a 5.75 internal cubic feet. I always recommend a 3/4 inch roundover edge on the extremal port area. 6"Dx10"L Round flared precision port port box: You'll need a 5.5 internal cubic foot box. For determining how to cut the port length, follow these guideline. * - The value for Flare Length Port Required is the overall length of the flared port. If you specified more than one port for the Number of Ports value the Flare Length Port Required value will be for each port. * - For the 6" Precision Ports cut the center tube 6 inches shorter than the Flare Length Port Required value. [URL unfurl="true"]http://www.psp-inc.com/tools2.html[/URL] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
Bracing MDF
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh