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Big 3 upgrade problem
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<blockquote data-quote="Riggz" data-source="post: 8577133" data-attributes="member: 672873"><p>I didn't see your pics until now because for some reason they were not loading but fixing that ground to real metal is going to help everything. Your not grounded to sheet metal in the back as well are you? You should find a seatbelt bolt or a body mount bolt under the carpet for the rear as well if you haven't already.</p><p></p><p>As far as the amps I referred to as getting so hot you couldn't hold your hand on them.. these were not there same precision power, fosgate, orion amps you buy today. These are referred to now as cheater amps and in the early.90's all the big boys made really small, really under rated amplifiers that you could really draw a lot of power or of. . It meant a lot to stay within the 101-250 watt class because above that you would be against a van with 10 12's in it and these amps made it easy to do</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Riggz, post: 8577133, member: 672873"] I didn't see your pics until now because for some reason they were not loading but fixing that ground to real metal is going to help everything. Your not grounded to sheet metal in the back as well are you? You should find a seatbelt bolt or a body mount bolt under the carpet for the rear as well if you haven't already. As far as the amps I referred to as getting so hot you couldn't hold your hand on them.. these were not there same precision power, fosgate, orion amps you buy today. These are referred to now as cheater amps and in the early.90's all the big boys made really small, really under rated amplifiers that you could really draw a lot of power or of. . It meant a lot to stay within the 101-250 watt class because above that you would be against a van with 10 12's in it and these amps made it easy to do [/QUOTE]
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