Reply to thread

Message

<blockquote data-quote="Oldbasshead" data-source="post: 8840795" data-attributes="member: 688756">I&#039;ve got the 1/0 OFC wires to do my Big 3 on a 2019 Mazda 3 sedan with a stock 130A alternator and new battery. As it sits now, I&#039;m getting some pretty severe voltage drops, dropping below 11V at full-tilt, which is causing my cap/amps to go into protect. I&#039;m running 4G OFC power/ground to my amp board and probably pulling somewhere around 1500W RMS between two amps. I&#039;ll replace the 4G power/ground if I absolutely need to, but I&#039;ve read that many people have no issues with 1500-2000 RMS on 4G wire, so the plan is to leave it for now and see if I still have voltage drop issues after I do the Big 3.Which brings me to my questions. Both the engine block and the battery negative terminal are running through some stupidly thin wire (10G maybe?) straight to a flimsy piece of sheet metal that&#039;s been spot welded to the strut housings under the hood. Should I use those same grounding points for the Big 3 upgrade? Seems like it wouldn&#039;t give the best ground since it&#039;s essentially only grounded at those two spot welds. It would be a lot easier if I sanded down the paint on the strut housings and grounded to those larger bolts. I have other options, but those are the most accessible. As long as I&#039;m metal-to-metal, those strut towers should be a good ground point, correct?With that in mind, I was also considering grounding the engine block to the battery negative terminal itself. Are there any pros/cons to running that ground to the battery instead of to the chassis? I mean, it&#039;s all going to be grounded to the chassis from the battery negative anyway.Thanks in advance for any help.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Oldbasshead, post: 8840795, member: 688756"] I've got the 1/0 OFC wires to do my Big 3 on a 2019 Mazda 3 sedan with a stock 130A alternator and new battery. As it sits now, I'm getting some pretty severe voltage drops, dropping below 11V at full-tilt, which is causing my cap/amps to go into protect. I'm running 4G OFC power/ground to my amp board and probably pulling somewhere around 1500W RMS between two amps. I'll replace the 4G power/ground if I absolutely need to, but I've read that many people have no issues with 1500-2000 RMS on 4G wire, so the plan is to leave it for now and see if I still have voltage drop issues after I do the Big 3. Which brings me to my questions. Both the engine block and the battery negative terminal are running through some stupidly thin wire (10G maybe?) straight to a flimsy piece of sheet metal that's been spot welded to the strut housings under the hood. Should I use those same grounding points for the Big 3 upgrade? Seems like it wouldn't give the best ground since it's essentially only grounded at those two spot welds. It would be a lot easier if I sanded down the paint on the strut housings and grounded to those larger bolts. I have other options, but those are the most accessible. As long as I'm metal-to-metal, those strut towers should be a good ground point, correct? With that in mind, I was also considering grounding the engine block to the battery negative terminal itself. Are there any pros/cons to running that ground to the battery instead of to the chassis? I mean, it's all going to be grounded to the chassis from the battery negative anyway. Thanks in advance for any help. [/QUOTE]

Verification