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Best value 3Kwt amplifier for 2021 ?
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<blockquote data-quote="Fishchris" data-source="post: 8746236" data-attributes="member: 683065"><p>TY guys <img class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" alt="🙂" title="🙂" src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" /></p><p>Okay, so first about my electrical. I'm running a 320 amp Pro Power alternator. Love it. I'm not much into big, or multiple, or expensive high tech batteries, as I always felt it was better to make enough power right from the start, than to try to "store it".... But none the less, I do have a 6 month old, 100 amp hour AGM. Coolest part of my electrical though, is my 500 farad XS Power supercapacitor. Made such a huge difference stabilizing my voltage, and dynamic headroom in my music.</p><p>Long story short, I can play full tilt and hold 14.5 volts.... If I'm driving, but even at idle, maybe 14.2. What still bugs me, is that even with the stereo turned completely off, my voltage drops to 13.6-13.8, after I've been driving it for a while and the computer (is it called the ECU ?) tells the alternator everything is full and it can back off now. Urggg.</p><p></p><p>As for my cabin temp, my roof is insulated with 1/2" closed cell insulting foam, and my whole cab is also deadened with Noico 80mm (don't know why I waited so long for that !)</p><p>Also, in the Summer, I leave my AC fan cranked up, then use remote start and wait 15 minutes before I even get in the truck or turn on the system. So it's like 70-75F by the time I get in it.</p><p></p><p>All of this ^ plus I have a couple of PC case fans mounted in front of my amps + I have routed the back seat air (I ripped the back seats completely out, 2 weeks after I bought it brand new in 08') through dryer duct, and right into the center of my fans....</p><p></p><p>So, as I say, I can now play it indefinitely without it overheating. I just had to jump through 14 hoops to make it happen.... Which I know is kind of goofy, but it works.</p><p>-----------</p><p>But about amps, I had asked about a great value 3Kwt amp... But the best I could find were 3500 wt Skars.... Then I saw that Williston tested those at nearly 3800 ! I'm all for dynamic headroom.... But on my 1600 watt sub, whew, I dunno ?! Granted, actual wattage getting to the sub out of 3800 would probably be about 2600-2800.... But that's still quite a bit for a 1600 watt sub.... Hmmm.</p><p>About my hokie rigged cooling <img class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" alt="🤪" title="🤪" src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f92a.png" /> Looks pretty goofy, right ? But it works. I have a temp gage on the amp (bottom center) that I can easily see from the driver seat, and I'm always watching it.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]28801[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]28803[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fishchris, post: 8746236, member: 683065"] TY guys 🙂 Okay, so first about my electrical. I'm running a 320 amp Pro Power alternator. Love it. I'm not much into big, or multiple, or expensive high tech batteries, as I always felt it was better to make enough power right from the start, than to try to "store it".... But none the less, I do have a 6 month old, 100 amp hour AGM. Coolest part of my electrical though, is my 500 farad XS Power supercapacitor. Made such a huge difference stabilizing my voltage, and dynamic headroom in my music. Long story short, I can play full tilt and hold 14.5 volts.... If I'm driving, but even at idle, maybe 14.2. What still bugs me, is that even with the stereo turned completely off, my voltage drops to 13.6-13.8, after I've been driving it for a while and the computer (is it called the ECU ?) tells the alternator everything is full and it can back off now. Urggg. As for my cabin temp, my roof is insulated with 1/2" closed cell insulting foam, and my whole cab is also deadened with Noico 80mm (don't know why I waited so long for that !) Also, in the Summer, I leave my AC fan cranked up, then use remote start and wait 15 minutes before I even get in the truck or turn on the system. So it's like 70-75F by the time I get in it. All of this ^ plus I have a couple of PC case fans mounted in front of my amps + I have routed the back seat air (I ripped the back seats completely out, 2 weeks after I bought it brand new in 08') through dryer duct, and right into the center of my fans.... So, as I say, I can now play it indefinitely without it overheating. I just had to jump through 14 hoops to make it happen.... Which I know is kind of goofy, but it works. ----------- But about amps, I had asked about a great value 3Kwt amp... But the best I could find were 3500 wt Skars.... Then I saw that Williston tested those at nearly 3800 ! I'm all for dynamic headroom.... But on my 1600 watt sub, whew, I dunno ?! Granted, actual wattage getting to the sub out of 3800 would probably be about 2600-2800.... But that's still quite a bit for a 1600 watt sub.... Hmmm. About my hokie rigged cooling 🤪 Looks pretty goofy, right ? But it works. I have a temp gage on the amp (bottom center) that I can easily see from the driver seat, and I'm always watching it. [ATTACH type="full" alt="28801"]28801[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full" alt="28803"]28803[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Best value 3Kwt amplifier for 2021 ?
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