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<blockquote data-quote="joeFi" data-source="post: 8864808" data-attributes="member: 690438"><p>Yes price has a lot to do with the quality of parts in the amp…..I find the more you pay, the better the caps, diodes, resistors and mosfets. Although class D run on a whole different platform than the old school class A and B amplifiers……you get a lot more bang (or boom) for your Buck…..you just need to make sure you have decent amperage and batteries to back store the energy…..I would suggest a high output alternator……and maybe 2 deep cell batteries for anything over 3k watts…..and remember amperage= wattage…..the more power you have, the more wattage you’ll produce…I did a test on a taramps 3k amp….with a alternator putting out 320 amps per cycle and two deep cell lithium batteries I was able to produce a true 3300 watts…..welding wire is a much better conductor than that 0 gauge crap audio companies sell…..more expensive, but worth the price…..good luck to you…if you have any questions, fell free to text me back…..</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="joeFi, post: 8864808, member: 690438"] Yes price has a lot to do with the quality of parts in the amp…..I find the more you pay, the better the caps, diodes, resistors and mosfets. Although class D run on a whole different platform than the old school class A and B amplifiers……you get a lot more bang (or boom) for your Buck…..you just need to make sure you have decent amperage and batteries to back store the energy…..I would suggest a high output alternator……and maybe 2 deep cell batteries for anything over 3k watts…..and remember amperage= wattage…..the more power you have, the more wattage you’ll produce…I did a test on a taramps 3k amp….with a alternator putting out 320 amps per cycle and two deep cell lithium batteries I was able to produce a true 3300 watts…..welding wire is a much better conductor than that 0 gauge crap audio companies sell…..more expensive, but worth the price…..good luck to you…if you have any questions, fell free to text me back….. [/QUOTE]
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