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Amplifiers
Best amp for 3 X15s wired at 1.3 ohms?
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<blockquote data-quote="Buck" data-source="post: 8746951" data-attributes="member: 591582"><p>x2 on the gain matching. I would avoid, at a large cost, using 3 amplifiers that had to be gained matched, or any combination like that, personally. I've gain matched before, but it's just not an easy feeling to settle on gain matching, it never feels like it'll be perfect.</p><p></p><p>I think the easiest thing would to be just get a bigger monoblock, and keep your subs at 1.33 ohms. That's a great ohm load to overpower your subs with. Some of the lower impedance builds, where people do the equivalent of a .5 ohm load on a 1 ohm rated amp, they work, but you can also get weird peaks while playing music, because of the box impedance shifting or increasing/decreasing factor. When you're at .5, there's not very much room for impedance changes, as far as your amp liking it. I've experimented with this personally. There's a stability factor 100%, when it comes to woofers and long throw, and the hell that can be on your amp, especially at a low ohm load. You can shove so much electricity in the amp when the subs flap around a lot.</p><p></p><p>If you wanna run stable systems, you need an amp with a really good dampening factor. I think that's one of the only 2 reasons I could run my 2 9.1's at 1.4 ohms strapped:</p><p></p><p>1. I had a fairly overbuilt electrical</p><p>2. The 9.1 amps I had control the subwoofer really well, which can help control impedance spikes and dips, because the coil isn't "thrown" by the amp, it's controlled better.</p><p></p><p>If my box wasn't slightly oversized, the amps would've like it better, because the woofers wouldn't have moved as much when playing away from tuning frequency, which is part of what kills amps, or puts them into protect, if you get a voltage overload into the speaker wires that's produced by the sub.</p><p></p><p>I hope that makes sense.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Buck, post: 8746951, member: 591582"] x2 on the gain matching. I would avoid, at a large cost, using 3 amplifiers that had to be gained matched, or any combination like that, personally. I've gain matched before, but it's just not an easy feeling to settle on gain matching, it never feels like it'll be perfect. I think the easiest thing would to be just get a bigger monoblock, and keep your subs at 1.33 ohms. That's a great ohm load to overpower your subs with. Some of the lower impedance builds, where people do the equivalent of a .5 ohm load on a 1 ohm rated amp, they work, but you can also get weird peaks while playing music, because of the box impedance shifting or increasing/decreasing factor. When you're at .5, there's not very much room for impedance changes, as far as your amp liking it. I've experimented with this personally. There's a stability factor 100%, when it comes to woofers and long throw, and the hell that can be on your amp, especially at a low ohm load. You can shove so much electricity in the amp when the subs flap around a lot. If you wanna run stable systems, you need an amp with a really good dampening factor. I think that's one of the only 2 reasons I could run my 2 9.1's at 1.4 ohms strapped: 1. I had a fairly overbuilt electrical 2. The 9.1 amps I had control the subwoofer really well, which can help control impedance spikes and dips, because the coil isn't "thrown" by the amp, it's controlled better. If my box wasn't slightly oversized, the amps would've like it better, because the woofers wouldn't have moved as much when playing away from tuning frequency, which is part of what kills amps, or puts them into protect, if you get a voltage overload into the speaker wires that's produced by the sub. I hope that makes sense. [/QUOTE]
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Best amp for 3 X15s wired at 1.3 ohms?
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