behringer dcx2496 or PG octane 9.0:5

~Magick_Man~
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Veteran
well i am about to have 200 to throw into my system and i have decided it will be one of these two things.

BEHRINGER

Octane 9.0:5 at bottom of page

if i go with the berhinger i will be able to go active with my current amp. and in the future be able to add in a cdt ef 8" sub (or a pair under the front seats) to help fill out from 75 ish to about 125

if i go with the PG i will get a coustic xm6 and run active but i think it might make my tweeters cook even with the gain turned down.

or with the PG keep the passive crossovers and run them off 2 channels, use 2 channels bridged to run the cdt sub and my 16k off the sub channel.

i have a couple questions about the PG.

they advertise 125 watts rms at 4 ohms on ch 1-4. but i have seen in several places they (different retailers) state the rms as 50-75. and peak of 125.

also can you bridge channels 3/4 ?

sorry for so many questions and thanks in advance.

~Magick_Man~

 
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 50W x 4 + 150W x 1

http://www.cardomain.com/item/PHOR905

I believe the 125w figure on the PG page is peak power.

If you got the Behringer, what was your plan on powering it in your vehicle since it is designed for 120VAC and not 12VDC? Build a power supply? Purchase a donor amp and tap off of it's power supply into the Behringer? Have someone else design and install a power supply?

Just want to be sure you have it (and the associated costs) fully thought through //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
well crap i am not sure i want to get the pg anymore since is is essentially the same as the amp i have now.

and as far as powering the behringer i was looking at a plain old inverter

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=125-200

it seems that other people have had no problem using an inverter so i should be ok.

if i have any noise problems on anything i will figure something out then.

~Magick_Man~

 
umm.... that behringer has balanced XLR outputs. You're going to need some converter boxes to get it down to unbalanced RCA lines. Also, having used this unit twice before on two seperate proaudio installs... I hate it. It hisses and the controls are sloppy and not well laid out.

I would go with that coustic setup if I were you.

 
umm.... that behringer has balanced XLR outputs. You're going to need some converter boxes to get it down to unbalanced RCA lines.
Doesn't need any convertor boxes....he would need to make his own cables, however.

http://www.vandenhul.com/artpap/wiring2.htm

And power invertors = //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/sick.gif.b1847c8dabbfeeddbcf1a78052249e10.gif If you're going to do it, do it right and build or use an actual power supply.

Also, having used this unit twice before on two seperate proaudio installs... I hate it. It hisses and the controls are sloppy and not well laid out.
You'll have that with Behringer, being that they are the "on the high end of the low end" in Pro Audio. Some people hate them, some people love them :shrugs:

 
could you suggest a power supply to use.i dont want to build one myself unless the prebuilt ones are expensive.

~Magick_Man~
RobM at Carsound.com used to make power supplies for the Behringer units, but I am not sure if he still does.

 
RobM at Carsound.com used to make power supplies for the Behringer units, but I am not sure if he still does.

From what I've read.....those weren't the greatest power supplies ever designed.

http://www.elitecaraudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=108065

You could check with Image Dynamics and see if they still sell the IDPS power supply. It's the power supply they used in their processors (which were essentially modified pro audio rack mount units).....though you would need to install it yourself. IIRC it used to cost around $75 for the power supply.

Or, like I said....just use a cheap donor amp. You'd essentially be connecting the power supply of the amp directly to the internal power input section of the Behringer. If you really wanted, I could do some digging and find some examples I had from a while back.......

 
From what I've read.....those weren't the greatest power supplies ever designed.
http://www.elitecaraudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=108065

You could check with Image Dynamics and see if they still sell the IDPS power supply. It's the power supply they used in their processors (which were essentially modified pro audio rack mount units).....though you would need to install it yourself. IIRC it used to cost around $75 for the power supply.

Or, like I said....just use a cheap donor amp. You'd essentially be connecting the power supply of the amp directly to the internal power input section of the Behringer. If you really wanted, I could do some digging and find some examples I had from a while back.......
I have always been kind of curious about the donor amp conversion. How is it exactly done? I know that basically at some point in the Behringer units everything is 12 volt, but how would you exactly use the amps power supply?

 
I have always been kind of curious about the donor amp conversion. How is it exactly done? I know that basically at some point in the Behringer units everything is 12 volt, but how would you exactly use the amps power supply?
Here's some of the info I dug up back when I was looking into having a DBX DriveRack PA converted for use;

http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=19;t=000545 (shows pics and a good explaination of how it was done with a "donor amp")

http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=19;t=000553

http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showthread.php?threadid=87873

 
well this is not the news i was wanting to hear.i am starting to think about scrapping this idae and buying a viper alarm from hccafan instead.

~Magick_Man~
It actually doesn't appear that difficult. I opened an old crutchfield amp that I purchased at a garage sale for $10, and sure enough after the voltage regulators there are +/-15 volt and volt outputs. I don't have the behringer unit yet, but I assume that it would probably only take about 2 minutes of probing to figure out were to hook the power supply up to.

My one question is, I thought I heard that there was only a certain length that you could run the display and remote away from the mainboard. Can any one confirm or deny this?

 
Not to thread jack, but I actually convertered a home audio equalizer last night and it was pretty easy. It took about two minutes of probing, and 5 minutes of soldering and it was done. I ran +/- 28 volts from the amp power supply to where I probed the equalizer at +/- 27 volts. I also ran a ground from the amp to the equalizer. Take a look:







 
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