Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Battery and power supply
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="brian84corvette" data-source="post: 8318486" data-attributes="member: 586635"><p>if you decide to go with more alternator - i can not stress enough how important having the propper "big 3" wiring added to your car is.</p><p></p><p>i had some cheap 4 guage wiring doing my big 3 and a walmart scoche fuze block at my alt to battery + wire and when i finaly took that junk out and replaced with copper 1/0 guage welding wire the electric in my truck became much more efficent. i was droping to 12s badly with 4 guage - but just by adding propper wiring with GOOD fuze blocks and fuzes my voltage would not drop below 13s ( on a stock chevy 120 amp alternator )</p><p></p><p>now that ive upgraded to big boy status with system in the truck running over 5k rms total system value i decided a good alternator was in order - as i like to parking lot demo at car shows and random hangout or show off situations - and dont want to be that guy who plays 60 seconds of a song and turns down because voltage stinks = i did alot of homework on alternators and found the "hair pin" style alternator to be superior in every way to a conventional style alternator.</p><p></p><p>they make better power when hot - and make more power at engine idle situation, lets face it - no one wants to demo a few songs holding their foot on the gas reving the engine to 2000 rpm to keep voltage up... that sounds like a great way to blow an engine to me... so i went with singer hair pin large case gm alt = 220 amps at engine idle hot - and 320 amps at 1800 rpm hot... for a single alternator its worth its weight in gold.</p><p></p><p>battery reserve is great to have also - but you have to keep your batterys maintained religusly or they will go bad on you. 12.4 is the magic number. at 12.4 volts the battery is so badly discharged that it starts eating itself. the longer a battery sits at 12.4 volts or lower charge = the more perminant harm is done to the battery - and while its possible to de sulphate and recharge - it is still damaging to the batterys to sit at 12.4 and lower charge.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="brian84corvette, post: 8318486, member: 586635"] if you decide to go with more alternator - i can not stress enough how important having the propper "big 3" wiring added to your car is. i had some cheap 4 guage wiring doing my big 3 and a walmart scoche fuze block at my alt to battery + wire and when i finaly took that junk out and replaced with copper 1/0 guage welding wire the electric in my truck became much more efficent. i was droping to 12s badly with 4 guage - but just by adding propper wiring with GOOD fuze blocks and fuzes my voltage would not drop below 13s ( on a stock chevy 120 amp alternator ) now that ive upgraded to big boy status with system in the truck running over 5k rms total system value i decided a good alternator was in order - as i like to parking lot demo at car shows and random hangout or show off situations - and dont want to be that guy who plays 60 seconds of a song and turns down because voltage stinks = i did alot of homework on alternators and found the "hair pin" style alternator to be superior in every way to a conventional style alternator. they make better power when hot - and make more power at engine idle situation, lets face it - no one wants to demo a few songs holding their foot on the gas reving the engine to 2000 rpm to keep voltage up... that sounds like a great way to blow an engine to me... so i went with singer hair pin large case gm alt = 220 amps at engine idle hot - and 320 amps at 1800 rpm hot... for a single alternator its worth its weight in gold. battery reserve is great to have also - but you have to keep your batterys maintained religusly or they will go bad on you. 12.4 is the magic number. at 12.4 volts the battery is so badly discharged that it starts eating itself. the longer a battery sits at 12.4 volts or lower charge = the more perminant harm is done to the battery - and while its possible to de sulphate and recharge - it is still damaging to the batterys to sit at 12.4 and lower charge. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Battery and power supply
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list