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<blockquote data-quote="Buck" data-source="post: 8747237" data-attributes="member: 591582">For a reference:I had a 300 amp alt charging at about 15v (ext v reg), I had 3x 100ah powerware group 31 AGM&#039;s in the back (omg you wanna talk about heavy lulz).&nbsp; I had a batcap 3000 under the front hood.&nbsp; 4 runs of 250 amp zero gauge, 2 power - 2 ground.&nbsp; No amps ground to frame.&nbsp; All closed loop to alt.My amps together were rated at 2400w @ 2 ohms strapped @ 12.6v.&nbsp; One amp bench tested at 1380w @ 13.8v.&nbsp; Most of the time I wouldn&#039;t drop below 13.5-13.8v at full tilt.&nbsp; Most of the time.&nbsp; My 13 cube box was a hair to big to play above 65 hz or so, electrically.&nbsp; Tuned to 29 hz, and having a slightly oversized box, my subs really started unloading in the mid 60&#039;s, but could easily play into the 70&#039;s, as far as frequency response went.I was running those amps strapped at a final 1.4 ohm load.&nbsp; My amps would very quickly cut on and off if I was playing below 25 hz, and if there was a super quick transition to a higher note, or if a punch happened.&nbsp; Rarely did it though, and the amps would come right back on without me doing anything.&nbsp; Kind of a like a little fart that means nothing haha. But when I went to play above about 65 without the 12 db/oct slope I set up, my voltage would dip way down into the 11&#039;s!!!Even with 380 AH of batteries, and a legit as F 300 amp alt charging at almost 15v, I would still drop into the 11&#039;s, basically because my box was too big.&nbsp; So just my box alone killed my voltage at high frequencies, because of port tuning frequency, and more because of the box being a hair too big (which is fine I wanted it that way).&nbsp; So there&#039;s some thoughts about what frequency you&#039;re playing and how it can effect your electrical.If your sub is flapping around wildly, your voltage is gonna pay the price.&nbsp; Better get good amps with good dampening factors LOL</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Buck, post: 8747237, member: 591582"] For a reference: I had a 300 amp alt charging at about 15v (ext v reg), I had 3x 100ah powerware group 31 AGM's in the back (omg you wanna talk about heavy lulz). I had a batcap 3000 under the front hood. 4 runs of 250 amp zero gauge, 2 power - 2 ground. No amps ground to frame. All closed loop to alt. My amps together were rated at 2400w @ 2 ohms strapped @ 12.6v. One amp bench tested at 1380w @ 13.8v. Most of the time I wouldn't drop below 13.5-13.8v at full tilt. Most of the time. My 13 cube box was a hair to big to play above 65 hz or so, electrically. Tuned to 29 hz, and having a slightly oversized box, my subs really started unloading in the mid 60's, but could easily play into the 70's, as far as frequency response went. I was running those amps strapped at a final 1.4 ohm load. My amps would very quickly cut on and off if I was playing below 25 hz, and if there was a super quick transition to a higher note, or if a punch happened. Rarely did it though, and the amps would come right back on without me doing anything. Kind of a like a little fart that means nothing haha. But when I went to play above about 65 without the 12 db/oct slope I set up, my voltage would dip way down into the 11's!!! Even with 380 AH of batteries, and a legit as F 300 amp alt charging at almost 15v, I would still drop into the 11's, basically because my box was too big. So just my box alone killed my voltage at high frequencies, because of port tuning frequency, and more because of the box being a hair too big (which is fine I wanted it that way). So there's some thoughts about what frequency you're playing and how it can effect your electrical. If your sub is flapping around wildly, your voltage is gonna pay the price. Better get good amps with good dampening factors LOL [/QUOTE]

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