Arc Audio ARC 6.2 components questions.

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I looked at the pricing on the Scanspeak Revelators and SB Acoustics Satori speakers... I don't see how the majority of those speakers are out of my budget. Specifically these (6½" SATORI MW16PNW-4). Are these what you are saying I should run if I want good sound?

yes thats the budget line of the bunch listed. Made of quality materials with the cone and a strong neo motor with paired with good engineering behind it. Definitely far superior drivers to the arc components which literally look like cookie cutter stuff. Definitely go with beryllium tweeters though all beryllium setups i've heard sounded magnificent, you will need to either fiberglass some tweeter pods or use PVC pipe end caps. The tweeters are huge. Those mids are 148 each, and tweets will be seperate as well. Vs the 300 you plan on paying, the raw driver setup will costs you 600ish.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Beryllium is pretty exotic... and pricey. I am not the biggest fan of metal domes. But hey, one never knows.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Beryllium is pretty exotic... and pricey. I am not the biggest fan of metal domes. But hey, one never knows.

the cheap metal domes are sh*tty sounding. The most expensive well made metal domes are far superior to soft domes.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Different materials need different installs. 5000 hertz is 5000hz from silk or a tin can

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Take a drive to north Alabama or Orlando. 2 of the best shops in the country for comp winning builds. Give them a budget.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I think I’m going to bite the bullet and get a steg midbass.

After I get this forum boner amp to stop going thermal. **** A/B amps.

 

[Jcsaudio]

Different materials need different installs. 5000 hertz is 5000hz from silk or a tin can

Well, the truth is different driver materials add coloration or overtones to that 5000 Hz because they resonate. Manufacturers try to get away from this by trying different materials, techniques, and surrounds to damp this out. In instruments, it’s what makes a violin that plays the same note as a piano sound like a violin and a piano sound like a piano. Same goes for mid woofers, where different cone materials add coloration and overtones to the sound they produce. When you hear someone describe a speaker as sounding warm or dry, what they mean is those overtones added to the mix make it sound this way.

I know you are aware of this, so don’t take it as an insult, it’s more for anyone who might be watching and not know.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Well, the truth is different driver materials add coloration or overtones to that 5000 Hz because they resonate. Manufacturers try to get away from this by trying different materials, techniques, and surrounds to damp this out. In instruments, it’s what makes a violin that plays the same note as a piano sound like a violin and a piano sound like a piano. Same goes for mid woofers, where different cone materials add coloration and overtones to the sound they produce. When you hear someone describe a speaker as sounding warm or dry, what they mean is those overtones added to the mix make it sound this way.
I know you are aware of this, so don’t take it as an insult, it’s more for anyone who might be watching and not know.

That is the response. Which is controlled by axis and tuning.

People don’t use warm right. Warm is lower midbass

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Refer to the graphs. Same tweeter. Different materials. Pretty close but one wants to be more on axis.

With a bit of EQ they can match.

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/beryllium-dome-tweeters/scanspeak-illuminator-d3004/6040-00-beryllium-dome-tweeter-each/

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/scanspeak-soft-dome-tweeters/scanspeak-illuminator-d3004/6020-00-tweeter-textile-dome/

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Refer to the graphs. Same tweeter. Different materials. Pretty close but one wants to be more on axis. With a bit of EQ they can match.

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/beryllium-dome-tweeters/scanspeak-illuminator-d3004/6040-00-beryllium-dome-tweeter-each/

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/scanspeak-soft-dome-tweeters/scanspeak-illuminator-d3004/6020-00-tweeter-textile-dome/

to achieve the same level of 10khz + output the soft dome cant do it that well at all hence the superiority of berylliums IMO they are WAAAAY more airy naturally. So i guess its a bit of a personal preference on the kind of house curve you want. I dont like the harmon house curve with things dying down up top, I found out what my current preferred curve is called which is the fletcher munson curve. You dont always have to rely on EQ overboosts or overcuts to try to achieve the same sound signature but still having it fall short purely because the tweeter is not capable up top with the soft domes vs the beryllium, its strong up top and you can always lower any part of it down if need to AKA headroom. I always assume it will be on axis installs when it comes to tweeters unless its a super tweeter or a cheaply made titantium/aluminium dome.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Personal preference is definitely a huge factor. What I am after and the best way I can describe it is, a natural, bell like tone. Point of reference: I play guitar and I have played EVERYTHING from tiny to large guitar amps from solid state to hybrid to full on tube amps. All with the same source (pickups). My personal preference is that Fender Tube amps are superior to Marshall Tube amps when it comes to Tone, Sound and Dynamics. It is just the way the sound falls into my ears... I love Marshall amps but there is a difference and that is enough for me to use Fender... which I do.

Honestly I am not that worried about the tweeter... if I had my way it would be the 6 1/2" midrange speaker and a tweeter in the 2" range. Optimally an 8" - 5 1/4" - 2" in each door. But I will work with what I can fit behind the panels.

I have a theory about tweeters. My theory is that small, hard domes hurt the natural roll-off of metal instruments like cymbals because they are too light and fast. Maybe that is why some people say cloth tweeters sound more natural. I do know that when you hear a cymbal crash in person you can feel it too, it has mass and thickness. It's hard to get mass and thickness from a 1" metal dome. I know that high frequencies require a speaker to move many more times a second and it is easier to achieve that with a small speaker but I think at some point it begins to sacrifice natural impact. Most common instruments are going to roll off around 16Khz anyway. I am ranting... sorry.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

to achieve the same level of 10khz + output the soft dome cant do it that well at all hence the superiority of berylliums IMO they are WAAAAY more airy naturally. So i guess its a bit of a personal preference on the kind of house curve you want. I dont like the harmon house curve with things dying down up top, I found out what my current preferred curve is called which is the fletcher munson curve. You dont always have to rely on EQ overboosts or overcuts to try to achieve the same sound signature but still having it fall short purely because the tweeter is not capable up top with the soft domes vs the beryllium, its strong up top and you can always lower any part of it down if need to AKA headroom. I always assume it will be on axis installs when it comes to tweeters unless its a super tweeter or a cheaply made titantium/aluminium dome.

The Fletcher Munson is not a house curve. It shows how we hear.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I am on the fence about the Satori mids... I read the spec info, power handling is pretty low. Whouldn't I destroy these speakers putting 100+ watts to them???

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Music is dynamic. A 100 watt amp never produces 100 watts. Drivers like that are rated full range also. You will bandpass.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Music is dynamic. A 100 watt amp never produces 100 watts. Drivers like that are rated full range also. You will bandpass.

Ok that makes sense... What do you think I could push safely to them once properly crossed over? I am about 3 seconds away from pulling the trigger and ordering them.