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<blockquote data-quote="BnGRacing" data-source="post: 7464278" data-attributes="member: 557400"><p>In theory, power ratings on any particular speaker is a thermal rating meaning it can handle the amount of heat generated when X amount of watts are passed through it's coil. In practice, many companies abuse this number as there's no real oversight to how a speaker should be tested. Realistically, I wouldn't worry much about matching the wattage sticker on a speaker to an amp.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Go pound your fist against a wall. Makes quite a boom right? The greater surface area helps to literally grip the air an move it. Bass is created in a car by pressurizing the cabin meaning moving a lot of air. If you're playing a 45hz tone, a larger woofer will be moving more air per stroke than say a 4" mid. They'll both be producing the tone, it's just the bigger woofer moves more air so you can hear/feel it. You can hear bass in your headphones right? Those aren't exactly big speakers now are they? But since they don't have to move anywhere near the same amount of air required to fill a living room with bass, they can be much smaller.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Only on paper. Most people will not be able to tell the difference in an A-B blind test.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Doesn't work like that. It's a use it or lose it type deal as each channel (you have 4 ch) of the HU's tiny amp cannot be combined with the others to increase power.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Overpowering them. You can do this by using amplifiers whose power far exceeds the thermal limitations of the woofer -or- you are raising the average power going to the woofer through LOUD buttons, Bass Boosts, EQs, too much gain, too much volume and are exceeding the thermal limitations of the woofer that way. By exceeding the limitations of the amplifier, HU or not, you're still raising the Average power sent to the speaker and introducing distortion. So not only are you heating the speaker more, you're limiting its ability to cool itself by sending it a distorted signal. In addition, playing your system at 10:10ths on a long cruise is hard on speakers. Much like your car would overheat if you redlined it for an hour, speakers can do the same thing.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Hookers, hot rods, and hard alcohol</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BnGRacing, post: 7464278, member: 557400"] In theory, power ratings on any particular speaker is a thermal rating meaning it can handle the amount of heat generated when X amount of watts are passed through it's coil. In practice, many companies abuse this number as there's no real oversight to how a speaker should be tested. Realistically, I wouldn't worry much about matching the wattage sticker on a speaker to an amp. Go pound your fist against a wall. Makes quite a boom right? The greater surface area helps to literally grip the air an move it. Bass is created in a car by pressurizing the cabin meaning moving a lot of air. If you're playing a 45hz tone, a larger woofer will be moving more air per stroke than say a 4" mid. They'll both be producing the tone, it's just the bigger woofer moves more air so you can hear/feel it. You can hear bass in your headphones right? Those aren't exactly big speakers now are they? But since they don't have to move anywhere near the same amount of air required to fill a living room with bass, they can be much smaller. Only on paper. Most people will not be able to tell the difference in an A-B blind test. Doesn't work like that. It's a use it or lose it type deal as each channel (you have 4 ch) of the HU's tiny amp cannot be combined with the others to increase power. Overpowering them. You can do this by using amplifiers whose power far exceeds the thermal limitations of the woofer -or- you are raising the average power going to the woofer through LOUD buttons, Bass Boosts, EQs, too much gain, too much volume and are exceeding the thermal limitations of the woofer that way. By exceeding the limitations of the amplifier, HU or not, you're still raising the Average power sent to the speaker and introducing distortion. So not only are you heating the speaker more, you're limiting its ability to cool itself by sending it a distorted signal. In addition, playing your system at 10:10ths on a long cruise is hard on speakers. Much like your car would overheat if you redlined it for an hour, speakers can do the same thing. Hookers, hot rods, and hard alcohol [/QUOTE]
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