air bag suspension

here is the deal with air ride, on a full size truck or vehicle that weighs at least 3000lbs, which actual bags you can get a ride better than stock, way better, but the deal is that you have to roll with the truck or car only up about half the total psi the bag nedds to max, the more psi in the bag the stiffer the ride. Air cylinders (not air rods) in the earlier years were horrible because their valving was much like hydrualics, whereas an air bag is a billow of air and with a light car (import) they act like bricks. So for instance a Prelude on you average cylinder by joe in his garage will ride ridiculous, but if your run some of the cylinders that EAI puts out with and accumulator systems, the cylinders have area to expand, therefor yeilding a good quality airride. And yes you can run bags without shocks and there called Slam Specialities, the have a sidewall material (and internal bumpstops) that is over a 1/4 inch thick, so they dont squish like balloon, like firestone and others, which even though the started the game they cant compete with the slams (their prize to fame is the patented heat press 3 ring containment system. If you have the money or the determination or both, you should quit being scared, go airride!!!! you'll never go back. remeber fast fills (1/2 in valves) slower dumps (1/2 with schrader equiv) 100% duty comps, FBSS action, and I run 9 gal nitro tank to play with, regular tank and comp dont produce enough air (only draw back) get over it!!!! I Know all of this from custom fabricating and installing bags and cylinders for five years now, if you have ?'s ive got answers

any ?'s Why does my lincolns airbags **** *** !! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif j/k i know why they ****. I'm driving without em inflated in the front(its all kinds of f-ed up right now, needs new bags, solenoids). Just until i can sell this car for probably not much...

 
my friend usually rides low for the lower psi... still bumpy as ever though
he's got 8 1/2in valves all together.... and a heavy v6 in the front.... you can bet that front drops quick if your not careful... also getting a driveline compressor soon and i believe we are installing guages this weekend for ind bag and tank

What bag brand is he using, the bag honestly can make a diff, also there are hundred variables than can affect a ride, also is this a truck or a car, cuz it is not as simple as just baggin it, your suspension set up is often just as important, ball joints, caster/cambers, pinion angles, 2-link, 4-link. If the truck/car is setup right it should ride great!! I'd need more details to really truobleshoot. If his front is dropping too fast, and he wants to be able to fine tune his ride (which he should) just simply by (4) 1/2 brass caps and center drill them with a 3/32 bit and then it will regulate and he can remove them quickly (just threaded no sealant) to show off and what not!! If the 3/32 is too slow then go w/ a 1/4 bore

 
any ?'s Why does my lincolns airbags **** *** !! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif j/k i know why they ****. I'm driving without em inflated in the front(its all kinds of f-ed up right now, needs new bags, solenoids). Just until i can sell this car for probably not much...
The lincoln/expedition/h2/aurora stock systems all ****, they're like using bb's where a 9 mm bullet needs to go. The soleniods are junk, the bag/struts are unrated and cost way to much to service and they don't have any cool action. Granted and aftermarket system takes up a good deal of space especially in a car, but a good install will get around it, i've redone several stock systems in the past, plus if its not laying frame when its parked whats the point, Otherwise a stock static suspension would have done the trick.

 
What bag brand is he using, the bag honestly can make a diff, also there are hundred variables than can affect a ride, also is this a truck or a car, cuz it is not as simple as just baggin it, your suspension set up is often just as important, ball joints, caster/cambers, pinion angles, 2-link, 4-link. If the truck/car is setup right it should ride great!! I'd need more details to really truobleshoot. If his front is dropping too fast, and he wants to be able to fine tune his ride (which he should) just simply by (4) 1/2 brass caps and center drill them with a 3/32 bit and then it will regulate and he can remove them quickly (just threaded no sealant) to show off and what not!! If the 3/32 is too slow then go w/ a 1/4 bore

conitech bags... and it's a truck

soon he'll have 3in drop spindles and a 2 link... until then stock a-arms in the front and ridin monoleafs in the back for now... i know this is definitly not helping the ride at all... but it keeps that all important rear axle in place //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rotflol.gif.b453361716769b8110ddefc85ff03cd2.gif

as for dropping quick i think he will solve that by getting extensions for his switches so he can better modulate them... i was gonna get him silencers for his b-day but they would slow it down and he didn't want it

what's been done to it-

bags(duh) 2 1/2" valves per tire, 7 gallon air tank, new used compressor from a friend since the one in the kit completely sucked and did not work worth crap, and a 10 switch acrylic box, c-notched, frame connecter was notched also and cab was pushed up (driveshaft issues for the last two) bed was cut from one side to another for the frame, fender wells removed, removed his dash tonight so that it can be wrapped with tweed and while we were at it took the a/c out... i mean vents, evaporator, a/c fan unit in engine... the vacum lines, the vacum ball... wiring harness... everything for the a/c.... got a nice big 4x8 inch hole here the a/c used to come through the firewall... well now he can see the right side of his engine... right front tire, right a-arm, right air bag all from the comforts of the drivers seat... lol the heater never worked since he got the truck and one day i happened to be driving it and hit the wrong switch(dropped the front when i thought it was the back so i happened to hold the switch open.... and bam it hit the ground and the tire cracked the a/c fan housing so i just made up his mind about him taking the a/c out

 
Chevy, I'm wanting to put a full F.B.S.S. air ride suspension on a 95 Caprice Wagon. It's not going to happen for a while, but I figured I'd ask you anyway since you're here.

What compressor, tank(s), Bags, shocks, lines, valves, controls would you reccomend for this job?

I try to find good info about setups on-line, but all I can seem to find are these kits, and I don't trust these kits... any info on equiptment, or links to sites that are actually useful are MUCH appreciated.

 
Chevy, I'm wanting to put a full F.B.S.S. air ride suspension on a 95 Caprice Wagon. It's not going to happen for a while, but I figured I'd ask you anyway since you're here.
What compressor, tank(s), Bags, shocks, lines, valves, controls would you reccomend for this job?

I try to find good info about setups on-line, but all I can seem to find are these kits, and I don't trust these kits... any info on equiptment, or links to sites that are actually useful are MUCH appreciated.
i would ask on the B-body forum, www.impalassforum.com theres a few guys on there with air bags, im sure they could help you out
 
Chevy, I'm wanting to put a full F.B.S.S. air ride suspension on a 95 Caprice Wagon. It's not going to happen for a while, but I figured I'd ask you anyway since you're here.
What compressor, tank(s), Bags, shocks, lines, valves, controls would you reccomend for this job?

I try to find good info about setups on-line, but all I can seem to find are these kits, and I don't trust these kits... any info on equiptment, or links to sites that are actually useful are MUCH appreciated.
caprice wagon (sweet) i like it.

well heres what you'll need and what brands i'd recommend.

1. bags = (4) slam specialties al least the rs-72

2. regular acryl. 10-switch

3. valves (8) gc 250's

4. toxic shocks streetbeatcustoms.com (you can order custom lengths)

5. lines 50+ feet of 1/2 D.O.T.

6. at least (2) 5 gal. 1/2 in 8 ports D.O.T app. (as long as it totals 10 gal.) f.b.s.s. compression fittings (the push to connects wear out way to fast)

7. bag cups (unless you make yours)

8. some form of rear link setup ( i like 2 links there simple and dont take up space)

9. 5 position digital gauges (i highly recommend, huge help in monitoring suspen.)

10. air aryers/filters for each compressor.

11. at least two viair 100% duty 450's

12. electrical fuses, relays, wires, zip-ties, cut off wheels, sawzall blades, etc.

go to http://www.jpkustoms.com for you stuff lowest prices and free shipping, ask for James and say that JR from Pennsylvania sent you!!!

here ifcustoms caprice drop that they did

http://www.ifcustom.com/projects/projectspages/k-m/lilrobcaprice.htm

theres gonna be a lot of crap involved in dropping a car but its totally do-able

if you need a more in depth or one to one response

email jrheaps@hotmail.com

 
conitech bags... and it's a truck
soon he'll have 3in drop spindles and a 2 link... until then stock a-arms in the front and ridin monoleafs in the back for now... i know this is definitly not helping the ride at all... but it keeps that all important rear axle in place //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rotflol.gif.b453361716769b8110ddefc85ff03cd2.gif

as for dropping quick i think he will solve that by getting extensions for his switches so he can better modulate them... i was gonna get him silencers for his b-day but they would slow it down and he didn't want it

what's been done to it-

bags(duh) 2 1/2" valves per tire, 7 gallon air tank, new used compressor from a friend since the one in the kit completely sucked and did not work worth crap, and a 10 switch acrylic box, c-notched, frame connecter was notched also and cab was pushed up (driveshaft issues for the last two) bed was cut from one side to another for the frame, fender wells removed, removed his dash tonight so that it can be wrapped with tweed and while we were at it took the a/c out... i mean vents, evaporator, a/c fan unit in engine... the vacum lines, the vacum ball... wiring harness... everything for the a/c.... got a nice big 4x8 inch hole here the a/c used to come through the firewall... well now he can see the right side of his engine... right front tire, right a-arm, right air bag all from the comforts of the drivers seat... lol the heater never worked since he got the truck and one day i happened to be driving it and hit the wrong switch(dropped the front when i thought it was the back so i happened to hold the switch open.... and bam it hit the ground and the tire cracked the a/c fan housing so i just made up his mind about him taking the a/c out
what kind of truck, my current project is an 1989 chevy fuillsize with front 94-98 grill conver. (avatar pic.)

lol the joys and pains of air ride (all worth it though) well i would def redo the fire wall to lay the frame and no trun the rsik of tearring shit up due to accident switch trigger finger, plus its much safer to have all clearances on all four corners, get rid of the monoleaf (way 1991 technology) buy some 2x4 1/4 wall square tube, cut the ball joints off the leaf weld them to one end of the bar, weld a bag bracket on it and then weld an axle saddle and u-bolt it to the axle and run a trac bar, of course its not that simple but you get the idea, easier and cheaper than a four link!! i love 2-links, simple is good, plus heim joints are bullshit on a daily driver (learned from experience)

go to http://www.jpkustoms.com hes got everything cheap and free shipping

 
what kind of truck, my current project is an 1989 chevy fuillsize with front 94-98 grill conver. (avatar pic.)lol the joys and pains of air ride (all worth it though) well i would def redo the fire wall to lay the frame and no trun the rsik of tearring shit up due to accident switch trigger finger, plus its much safer to have all clearances on all four corners, get rid of the monoleaf (way 1991 technology) buy some 2x4 1/4 wall square tube, cut the ball joints off the leaf weld them to one end of the bar, weld a bag bracket on it and then weld an axle saddle and u-bolt it to the axle and run a trac bar, of course its not that simple but you get the idea, easier and cheaper than a four link!! i love 2-links, simple is good, plus heim joints are bullshit on a daily driver (learned from experience)

go to http://www.jpkustoms.com hes got everything cheap and free shipping

1993 chevy s10 reg cab 4.3L i'll have some pics tomorrow of it's current state

he wants to lay frame...thats why basically the engine compartment is empty... all he needs now is the 3 in drop spindles and 2 link set-up

lookin at that site... will have to show him the wireless controller... really scare the shit out of passerby's when it's movin with no one around

 
1993 chevy s10 reg cab 4.3L i'll have some pics tomorrow of it's current state
he wants to lay frame...thats why basically the engine compartment is empty... all he needs now is the 3 in drop spindles and 2 link set-up

lookin at that site... will have to show him the wireless controller... really scare the shit out of passerby's when it's movin with no one around
thats a sweet trick my friend has a caddy clipped fullsize, we were chillin at the mall sitting on the benches about 15 yards away and a group of chickswalcked by his truck (still aired up) and his has a wireless, they were real close so he his the switch and the air scared the bajezzas out of one girl, we actually heared her yelp!!!

 
so what exactlly will i be needing for my 92 lude. my buget is no more than two grand so if thats not enough to get a good kit just ignore all this. the main brand im looking at is air ride. how easy are their kits to put on and how good of a company are they. now if you tell me its a real hard process tell me why and how much it is to have pro done. also if they arent that great of a brand who is. thanks alot

 
so what exactlly will i be needing for my 92 lude. my buget is no more than two grand so if thats not enough to get a good kit just ignore all this. the main brand im looking at is air ride. how easy are their kits to put on and how good of a company are they. now if you tell me its a real hard process tell me why and how much it is to have pro done. also if they arent that great of a brand who is. thanks alot
Its easy to do on a prelude, I did a system in about 5 hours, and you just replace your stock struts and coils, make sure your kit has the proper braketry if app., eai has good cylinders there the best in air cylinders(i'd get the bag/struts though) but if you content on cylinders get EAI, "air ride" company kits **** in IMO. I hate their products and there kits, "CHEAP"

I get all my stuff through http://www.jpkustoms.com great prices and free shipping, ask for James and tell him JR sent you if you decide to buy from there for anything, he also carries the new bag/strut combos which ride way better than cylinders, I would recommend going to him because he is the best in customer service, I have found yet, and ive been buying products to bag cars and truck for 5 years now. When you get your kit make sure you get two compressors (450 viairs 100% duty) or equivalent, the 33% duties ****, you can only you then 3 minutes out over every ten min durations, run 3min wait 7min. make sure you get FBSS and also two tanks, for playtime. You should be able to hop at 140 psi with a lude and 1/2 valves!!!!!!! i would be glad to help with any further ?'s

 
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