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Aeroports can decrease port size by 50%???
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<blockquote data-quote="IgnoreMe" data-source="post: 3466195" data-attributes="member: 551352"><p>since we're still on the topic and all, if you cant afford aero ports (or dont want to drop $40 on a single 6" port). i found this from Team Toxic Bass. basically a way of making a flared port (only on the exit side) on the cheap, using PVC pipe, and an extra piece of MDF. however you do need a router, and a circle jig to get it right. if you have it, you should be golden.</p><p></p><p>here is the link, although i have included the pictures that deal with the port design in this post linked from my photobucket, just incase TTB decides to delete that webpage. <a href="http://www.teamtoxicbass.com/~pete/car_audio/compvr_bass-reflex/index.html" target="_blank">http://www.teamtoxicbass.com/~pete/car_audio/compvr_bass-reflex/index.html</a></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x246/georgefromca/port_and_frame.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>After some careful analysis of the trunk / cabin transfer profile, I arrived at a simple off-axis bass-reflex as the most suitable loading approach for the CVX to perform along the customer’s listening preferences. As rudimentary as this project is, I still like to improvise with a little bit of “flare”. After the panels are cut, I prepare a 10.22” length of PVC along with a 6” x 6” mounting frame.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x246/georgefromca/port_and_frame_joined.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The port is then fitted into the frame cut-out and held in place with contact cement. Note: When cutting PVC, it is best to save the sanding for after the pipe has been flush-mounted onto the adjoining surface.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x246/georgefromca/port_align.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Next, I align the frame with the upper enclosure panel and dry-mount it firmly with a set of four screws (no counter-sinking).</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x246/georgefromca/flare.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Then it’s simply a matter of flipping the panel around and tracing the port’s inner diameter with a 1” round-over bit for an outer flare diameter of 6” (equivalent to that of an AeroPort).</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x246/georgefromca/port_seal.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Once I’ve assured that everything aligns, the frame is glued in permanently for a perfect seal along the double-stack. As an additional anti-air leak precaution I circled the MDF / PVC merge point with a ring of silicone.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x246/georgefromca/assembly.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>With the panels disassembled, what would otherwise constitute a rather awkward and hard-to-reach aspect of the construction was made quite easy. Now onto the box assembly:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="IgnoreMe, post: 3466195, member: 551352"] since we're still on the topic and all, if you cant afford aero ports (or dont want to drop $40 on a single 6" port). i found this from Team Toxic Bass. basically a way of making a flared port (only on the exit side) on the cheap, using PVC pipe, and an extra piece of MDF. however you do need a router, and a circle jig to get it right. if you have it, you should be golden. here is the link, although i have included the pictures that deal with the port design in this post linked from my photobucket, just incase TTB decides to delete that webpage. [URL="http://www.teamtoxicbass.com/~pete/car_audio/compvr_bass-reflex/index.html"]http://www.teamtoxicbass.com/~pete/car_audio/compvr_bass-reflex/index.html[/URL] [IMG]http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x246/georgefromca/port_and_frame.jpg[/IMG] After some careful analysis of the trunk / cabin transfer profile, I arrived at a simple off-axis bass-reflex as the most suitable loading approach for the CVX to perform along the customer’s listening preferences. As rudimentary as this project is, I still like to improvise with a little bit of “flare”. After the panels are cut, I prepare a 10.22” length of PVC along with a 6” x 6” mounting frame. [IMG]http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x246/georgefromca/port_and_frame_joined.jpg[/IMG] The port is then fitted into the frame cut-out and held in place with contact cement. Note: When cutting PVC, it is best to save the sanding for after the pipe has been flush-mounted onto the adjoining surface. [IMG]http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x246/georgefromca/port_align.jpg[/IMG] Next, I align the frame with the upper enclosure panel and dry-mount it firmly with a set of four screws (no counter-sinking). [IMG]http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x246/georgefromca/flare.jpg[/IMG] Then it’s simply a matter of flipping the panel around and tracing the port’s inner diameter with a 1” round-over bit for an outer flare diameter of 6” (equivalent to that of an AeroPort). [IMG]http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x246/georgefromca/port_seal.jpg[/IMG] Once I’ve assured that everything aligns, the frame is glued in permanently for a perfect seal along the double-stack. As an additional anti-air leak precaution I circled the MDF / PVC merge point with a ring of silicone. [IMG]http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x246/georgefromca/assembly.jpg[/IMG] With the panels disassembled, what would otherwise constitute a rather awkward and hard-to-reach aspect of the construction was made quite easy. Now onto the box assembly: [/QUOTE]
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