Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Subwoofers
AE AV subs?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="John_E_Janowitz" data-source="post: 6066627" data-attributes="member: 550657"><p>No, I admit my business model is not good. Starting to build woofers out of a 2 bedroom duplex with no working capital is not a good model. I tried having a buildhouse make drivers for me. After they took $30,000 from me and put me through bankruptcy I decided building drivers here was a better option than going that route again. Competing in a business with million dollar companies where I can barely get parts suppliers to give me the time of day is also not a good business model. I do it because I enjoy it. Well, most of it anyway, and most of the time. I can help out small companies by doing small runs of 10-20 woofers at a time when otherwise they would have to go buy an off the shelf product. I can help the DIYers doing their own subwoofers for home theater, the same thing that got me started in this. I keep my people informed of what is happening and why it is happening because I would like to be informed if I was in the same situation. Most of my customers are understanding and appreciate this. You have never bought anything from me though and seem to take issue.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Kenny's original woofer used a soft spider. We have 3 stiffnesses of the same spider that fits the AV series. A, B, C. B is 2x as stiff as A and C is 4x as stiff as A. My "former employee" built Kenny's woofer with the softest of the 3 and informed him of that. Yes it is quite soft and we are now using the C stiffness. He has never stated we use "cheap parts" because he knows the fortune we spent on things. That was your claim not his. The spiders are 100% nomex. Nomex is extremely durable, much more so than poly cotton and about 4x the cost. It is virtually impossible to wear out during normal conditions. You have to actually stretch the fibers to break them. They have incredible resistance to fatigue. That is why Rightbrained's tremor twins are still working fine after months and so are other drivers we have sold since then.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Honestly because I had never thought about it. With proper slack pulled in the leads they don't touch the cone. None of the drivers done for Salk Sound or others had this issue as either my "former employee" or myself had built them all up until mid January. Since then I have realized the need for an insulating layer on the bottom of the cone in the case that this will happen.</p><p></p><p></p><p>I'm not calling anyone a liar. There were metal shavings on the motor you can see here.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.aespeakers.com/temp/Damaged%20Woofer/Damaged_AV15-1.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.aespeakers.com/temp/Damaged%20Woofer/Damaged_AV15-1.jpg</a></p><p></p><p>and the effects here:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.aespeakers.com/temp/Damaged%20Woofer/Damaged_AV15-4.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.aespeakers.com/temp/Damaged%20Woofer/Damaged_AV15-4.jpg</a></p><p></p><p>The metal on top of the magnet was not on there when the woofer left our door. How it got there I do not know and have never claimed otherwise, but there was a good amount IN the gap as well. If you understand how the magnetic circuit works you'll realize that the highest amount of stray flux is near the gap. Anything magnetic will tend to go towards this area if it is not restricted by something else.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Yes, clearly it is necessary anytime you are using a woofer in a vented box to protect the driver from over excursion below tuning or you'll drive the woofer to tearing itself apart below that point. MANY movie soundtracks have a lot of high level material in the mid teens and down to even under 10hz. SVSound has a good list of movies and actual "waterfall" plots of lots of scenes. You can see the material down to 10hz.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.svsound.com/questions-faqs.cfm#moviedemos" target="_blank">http://www.svsound.com/questions-faqs.cfm#moviedemos</a></p><p></p><p></p><p>Many home apps are not low power. As an example, Rightbrained's subs are now powered by a Face Audio F-1200TS which is 1200W x 2 at 4ohm of clean power. Again, the driver is adequately protected by a highpass filter to protect from over excursion and has no issues.</p><p></p><p>Can you refresh my memory on the discussion of power compression? Heat will raise the impedance of the driver. At the same time the inductance rises in proportion, but the proportion of the two stays roughly the same.</p><p></p><p>My "smoke and mirrors" are not measurements or testimonials I came up with. Any of the customers I have mentioned would be glad to give you their thoughts and opinions. Don't take my word for anything. As others who have used the drivers. Wait for the tests from augerpro on AVS and see what happens when BumpinBuick tests an AV15 as well. Or will they just be part of my smoke and mirrors then too?</p><p></p><p>John</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="John_E_Janowitz, post: 6066627, member: 550657"] No, I admit my business model is not good. Starting to build woofers out of a 2 bedroom duplex with no working capital is not a good model. I tried having a buildhouse make drivers for me. After they took $30,000 from me and put me through bankruptcy I decided building drivers here was a better option than going that route again. Competing in a business with million dollar companies where I can barely get parts suppliers to give me the time of day is also not a good business model. I do it because I enjoy it. Well, most of it anyway, and most of the time. I can help out small companies by doing small runs of 10-20 woofers at a time when otherwise they would have to go buy an off the shelf product. I can help the DIYers doing their own subwoofers for home theater, the same thing that got me started in this. I keep my people informed of what is happening and why it is happening because I would like to be informed if I was in the same situation. Most of my customers are understanding and appreciate this. You have never bought anything from me though and seem to take issue. Kenny's original woofer used a soft spider. We have 3 stiffnesses of the same spider that fits the AV series. A, B, C. B is 2x as stiff as A and C is 4x as stiff as A. My "former employee" built Kenny's woofer with the softest of the 3 and informed him of that. Yes it is quite soft and we are now using the C stiffness. He has never stated we use "cheap parts" because he knows the fortune we spent on things. That was your claim not his. The spiders are 100% nomex. Nomex is extremely durable, much more so than poly cotton and about 4x the cost. It is virtually impossible to wear out during normal conditions. You have to actually stretch the fibers to break them. They have incredible resistance to fatigue. That is why Rightbrained's tremor twins are still working fine after months and so are other drivers we have sold since then. Honestly because I had never thought about it. With proper slack pulled in the leads they don't touch the cone. None of the drivers done for Salk Sound or others had this issue as either my "former employee" or myself had built them all up until mid January. Since then I have realized the need for an insulating layer on the bottom of the cone in the case that this will happen. I'm not calling anyone a liar. There were metal shavings on the motor you can see here. [URL="http://www.aespeakers.com/temp/Damaged%20Woofer/Damaged_AV15-1.jpg"]http://www.aespeakers.com/temp/Damaged%20Woofer/Damaged_AV15-1.jpg[/URL] and the effects here: [URL="http://www.aespeakers.com/temp/Damaged%20Woofer/Damaged_AV15-4.jpg"]http://www.aespeakers.com/temp/Damaged%20Woofer/Damaged_AV15-4.jpg[/URL] The metal on top of the magnet was not on there when the woofer left our door. How it got there I do not know and have never claimed otherwise, but there was a good amount IN the gap as well. If you understand how the magnetic circuit works you'll realize that the highest amount of stray flux is near the gap. Anything magnetic will tend to go towards this area if it is not restricted by something else. Yes, clearly it is necessary anytime you are using a woofer in a vented box to protect the driver from over excursion below tuning or you'll drive the woofer to tearing itself apart below that point. MANY movie soundtracks have a lot of high level material in the mid teens and down to even under 10hz. SVSound has a good list of movies and actual "waterfall" plots of lots of scenes. You can see the material down to 10hz. [URL="http://www.svsound.com/questions-faqs.cfm#moviedemos"]http://www.svsound.com/questions-faqs.cfm#moviedemos[/URL] Many home apps are not low power. As an example, Rightbrained's subs are now powered by a Face Audio F-1200TS which is 1200W x 2 at 4ohm of clean power. Again, the driver is adequately protected by a highpass filter to protect from over excursion and has no issues. Can you refresh my memory on the discussion of power compression? Heat will raise the impedance of the driver. At the same time the inductance rises in proportion, but the proportion of the two stays roughly the same. My "smoke and mirrors" are not measurements or testimonials I came up with. Any of the customers I have mentioned would be glad to give you their thoughts and opinions. Don't take my word for anything. As others who have used the drivers. Wait for the tests from augerpro on AVS and see what happens when BumpinBuick tests an AV15 as well. Or will they just be part of my smoke and mirrors then too? John [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Subwoofers
AE AV subs?
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list