about how much DB drop from kx2500....to kx1200?

aaron7114
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
I'm going to a competition tonight and their classes are based on the MSRP on your amp....i know its a stupid way of doin it but whatever. I have a kx2500 which the MSRP is I think $1800 which puts me in the highest class which I dont stand much chance in because thats the class with all the vans. My buddy has a kx1200 that he will let me use which will drop me down two classes.

So I'm wondering about how big a drop im lookin at goin from the 2500 to 1200. One thing I should note is that my electrical isnt all that great so I'm sure I'm not gettin the full 2500 out of it.

My alt is 120 amp I believe, then I have a old regular everstart battery under the hood. The big 3 done in 0 guage. Then 0 guage going all the back to a kinetik 2400 which then 0 guage runs to the amp.

I was doin a 150.4 on the termlab with the 2500, but didn't get a chance to test it with the 1200 (which is why im makin this thread). However the competition I'm going to uses audiocontrol.

 
i dont know about the amps but how are the classes divided... like $100-$300, $301-$500 etc.....
0-250

251-500

501-750

751-1000

1001-1500

1501-Up

I will be in the 1501+ class with my 2500 and the 751-1000 class with the kx1200.

 
I'm hopin due to my pretty bad electrical and the electrical draw difference between the two amps that I wont lose too much. With my 2500 I drop down to 12 volts sometimes even 11.5. So I know I am not getting the full 2500 out of it. So I figure the kx1200 will juice to powerr it to more of its full potential...so after its all set and done I wont be dropping wattage in half. Thats just my own theory though.

 
just get a better electrical
The comp starts at 5 today. lol. And even if I had the perfect electrical I still wouldn't stand much of a chance in the 1500+ class. I have two 15s compared to the vans with six 15s, 24 batteries in the back, 3 batteries under the hood, 2 alternators.

 
you'd be surprised. there was a guy with 12 W7's in the back of a escalade and our setups hit the exact same score. i had 2 12'' R's off a 2006d in a daily driver box.

 
one thing I have noticed about the KX series of amplifiers is they're VERY UNDERATED as far as RMS WATTS goes. Personally, I have had a few different KX lines; KX200.2, KX450.2, and the KX850.2.

I know for a fact that the 200.2 and the 450.2 both are class A/B not sure if the 850.2 is A/B or D.

However I can tell you this much, if you simply mount a fan to that KX1200.1 (using a Bosch style relay, and a standard 80MM-120MM computer fan) you can get anywhere from a 5%-20% increase in power.

The 450.2 that I'm using currently was only rated for about 500WATTS on the birth sheet. After mounting a single 120MM fan to the amplifier and then hooking it up to a voltmeter we discovered it now is putting out almost 900WATTS PEAK if not more. This obviously brings the RMS up as well.

It also may be because it is a class A/B amp and if this is the case they're technically unregulated in power, but because they're prone to heat. Generally, the power is limited as far as the temperature goes (heat to power ratio; HIGHER TEMPS LOWER VOLTS or LOWER TEMPS HIGHER VOLTS). The cooler/colder you get an A/B amp the better it will run (as far as PEAK WATTS, THD, ETC.) and my theory is that this should work with class D amps as well. Especially considering it's a must with all electrical components these days regardless of the type. A perfect example is overclocking with computer processors, the cooler you have a computer the faster you can make it run.

Take this same concept and incorporate it into car audio. From what I have been discovering, from testing this idea on various amplifiers (KX200.2, KX450.2, KX850.2, JL 300/2, Rockford Fosgate 851S) . It clearly has become obvious that its a definite and proven theory with all amplifiers regardless of Class or Brand.

 
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