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General Car Audio
8" Midbass/Woofer capable of 150+ Watts RMS
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<blockquote data-quote="AnnihilatorAudio" data-source="post: 8700946" data-attributes="member: 679146"><p>1st off midbass is child's play to get flat 10k well past 20k frequency response within 3db. My RTA was flat from 20 out to 25k. That's better than CD quatitly. That's WHY I COULD TELL THE DIFFRRENTENCE IN THE SHITTY 320 vs HIGH RES flac.</p><p></p><p>I ported the MIDS FOR EXTENDED FREQUENCY RANGE I CAN PLAY DOWN AT 30 HERTZ NO PROBLEM..</p><p></p><p>UNTIL I see an RTA your video is shit. Your phone doesn't even record 20hz to 20khz..</p><p></p><p>I paid 600 for both sets with a warranty. Over paid NOT...</p><p></p><p>You paid 2x as much for someone to build your unsealed door pods you won't DARE RTA.</p><p></p><p>Now to fix the roof in my truck. broke all the welds with 1-18</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="AnnihilatorAudio, post: 8700946, member: 679146"] 1st off midbass is child's play to get flat 10k well past 20k frequency response within 3db. My RTA was flat from 20 out to 25k. That's better than CD quatitly. That's WHY I COULD TELL THE DIFFRRENTENCE IN THE SHITTY 320 vs HIGH RES flac. I ported the MIDS FOR EXTENDED FREQUENCY RANGE I CAN PLAY DOWN AT 30 HERTZ NO PROBLEM.. UNTIL I see an RTA your video is shit. Your phone doesn't even record 20hz to 20khz.. I paid 600 for both sets with a warranty. Over paid NOT... You paid 2x as much for someone to build your unsealed door pods you won't DARE RTA. Now to fix the roof in my truck. broke all the welds with 1-18 [/QUOTE]
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8" Midbass/Woofer capable of 150+ Watts RMS
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