4.5 ft @ 34hz flared port W/ 67.5 in for two 12" type R's

Can't help but notice how weak the bottom of the port wall is going to be. You painted over the wood where the titebond is supposed to adhere to the bottom baffle.

Any plans to brace inbetween the subs? Seems to be a very weak bridge.

 
Can't help but notice how weak the bottom of the port wall is going to be. You painted over the wood where the titebond is supposed to adhere to the bottom baffle.
Any plans to brace inbetween the subs? Seems to be a very weak bridge.
it is braced... plus im using brad nails as well as tightbond //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
i think im gonnna sand it down and repaint tommorow... i dont like the way it came out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

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there will be just enough room to put a flathead screwdriver in and pull one side of the subs up... the black is actually only on a small part inside the box (for the port) the shadows just make it look like i painted the whole thing
well the box is looking very nice. my type R's sit flush also...turned out to be very nice despite all the saw dust it produced. my gap around the subs is more like 1/2'' so i am able to remove it by hand.

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Are you using the spray hammered metal? If so, it's not worth the money. Even with tons of primer/paint soaked in, you won't get the coverage needed. The bursh-on stuff is much better.

 
Are you using the spray hammered metal? If so, it's not worth the money. Even with tons of primer/paint soaked in, you won't get the coverage needed. The bursh-on stuff is much better.
unfortunately i already found that out the hard way //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
If you do go with the brush-on, do one face at a time, and watch the runs. They can be really noticeable. Even when the stuff dries, they're hard to sand out due to the rubbery texture.

 
If you do go with the brush-on, do one face at a time, and watch the runs. They can be really noticeable. Even when the stuff dries, they're hard to sand out due to the rubbery texture.
try stripping off the semi dry sprayed on stuff //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
I just went over the spray stuff with the canned. You can ever rough it up with some coarse steel wool if you're worried about peeling.

 
ok... after hours of sanding trying to get that God ****ed rustoleum hammered paint off... i came out with this.. flat black for teh sexines, possibly rhino lined in the future

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and here is what i had for dinner last night... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

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thoughts //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
ok i am new to this flare port thing an they have a sticky on it on realm of excursion forum that i must read sometime. that box is awesome man u done a superb job on the build and design of it, love the baffle on it it looks super nice should look even hotter when the subs are in, i hope u have some vids of the system once he gets it hooked up and convince him to at least get 1500 watts for those babies

 
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