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3 way active door setup help
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<blockquote data-quote="djdilliodon!" data-source="post: 8775946" data-attributes="member: 684299"><p>that amp will do around 250w rms per channel at 2 ohm (at least from dyno tests I’ve seen). That is still a good amount of power! Since they will be run in a door infinite baffle, it’s gotta be a driver that can work in that application. Drivers that need an enclosure to perform will in many cases (not all of course) have nearly no bass output when run infinite baffle. With the power you have and from the kind of output you are looking for, building an enclosure on the door is a must IMO. With a sealed or small ported setup you open the door to a ton of options. Most of the raw drivers are lower Q meant to perform in either a sealed or ported enclosure. I’ve managed to get a few raw drivers to work IB but it varied in each vehicle. If you are willing to do an enclosure seas has some nice choices. They also have excellent midrange drivers as well.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="djdilliodon!, post: 8775946, member: 684299"] that amp will do around 250w rms per channel at 2 ohm (at least from dyno tests I’ve seen). That is still a good amount of power! Since they will be run in a door infinite baffle, it’s gotta be a driver that can work in that application. Drivers that need an enclosure to perform will in many cases (not all of course) have nearly no bass output when run infinite baffle. With the power you have and from the kind of output you are looking for, building an enclosure on the door is a must IMO. With a sealed or small ported setup you open the door to a ton of options. Most of the raw drivers are lower Q meant to perform in either a sealed or ported enclosure. I’ve managed to get a few raw drivers to work IB but it varied in each vehicle. If you are willing to do an enclosure seas has some nice choices. They also have excellent midrange drivers as well. [/QUOTE]
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