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General Car Audio
2008 350Z - Budget install - need ideas.
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<blockquote data-quote="Chromatic" data-source="post: 8209291" data-attributes="member: 659121"><p>Yeah that game was about as gut-wrenching as a game I've ever felt.. just really unexpected, and took our number 1 season and trampled on it.. plus with a returned 57 yd field goal attempt in the last second to win.. nuts. But, I'm getting over it. Saban acccepting his 7.x million contract at Alabama when Texas offered 10million makes me feel better,.. I think Saban will stay and end his career at tuscaloosa.</p><p></p><p>Yeah,.. I'd have to go have a double look to see if the Base model even has tweeters going.. But, these speakers are about the quality of buying Walmart $29 speakers.. honestly. There bad enough that even having them on will muddle any mid range to higher end speakers.</p><p></p><p></p><p>No I'm not deadset on eliminating tweeters -- Obviously my MB Quarts I have .. HAVE nice tweeters built into them.. it's just the location of them that is probably what your most concerned about (being down low in the doors).</p><p></p><p>If I bought a set of tweeters just to pair them with the MBquarts I have.. which isn't a bad idea -- would I NOT run the tweeter on the MB quarts in the door, and just run the set of tweeters placed up high? Or would it still be beneficial to run BOTH the component (high placement) tweeters AND the tweeters on the MB quart mids that are built over top as coaxials? Interesting thought, idea.. No idea how that would work.</p><p></p><p>I'm telling you these MB Quarts (if they sound like they used to) -- are quite impressive. I had two 12" JL's that won minor awards in minor competitions.. and it was primarily due to the accoustics of the car (which is VERY similar to the 350z) -- Those subs were in a 300ZX hatchback.. this is a 350Z hatchback.. the cars are shaped very similarly.. Point is these MB Quarts in the doors SCREAMED with no distortion at ridiculous volume levels.. To keep up with the bass produced in that system I had years ago.. it was actually quite remarkable what that setup did.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Yup, I'm familiar with the concept -- Never built a box.. but I know subs are rated for X cubic feet of space non ported,.. and a different rating if ported, etc. I'd probably match sub to Box rather than vice versa -- Sounds weird, but money wise.. the enclosures for even ONE sub,.. is WAY more expensive than even a mid-high end sub. (And I'm not doing more than one sub.. I don't want car rattling bass.. I want that clean punch.. that's all.) Which is why doing something in the factory location behind my passenger seat would be super ideal.. cause I don't want to take up room in the trunk,.. and a rear facing sub is going to push out insane bass in that car because of the shape.. It would be rear facing on a hatchback,.. and I know it'd be like the 300ZX .. I'd get A LOT more out of a W1 JL with even 100-150watts on it than some get with 500+watts and better subs. Sounds odd, but the car and where the sub is placed makes a HUGE difference.</p><p></p><p>Subs with less airspace,.. behind a seat, etc.. Are going to be weaker, by nature.. and for my purpose that's really a "Preferred" thing as odd as that sounds. Which is why something like an 8" JL Audio sub with 75-100 watts RMS would be ALL I wanted .. mounted behind the seat, or in an enclosure in the corner like that one picture I linked of the Wicked Cas enclosure:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.wickedcas.com/~wicked/product.php?productid=44&amp;cat=0&amp;page=3" target="_blank">Wicked C.A.S.*::*MAGIC BOXES*::*Nissan*::*Nissan 350Z Corner 1x10 Enclosure Sub box Subwoofer enclosure</a></p><p></p><p>Check it out.. $370 JUST for that enclosure,.. I'm obviously NOT buying that. Be nice if I could build something like that myself,.. but that's less woodworking and more molding. So again, I think the most ideal place that would fit in my budget is going to be a sub in the slot behind the driver seat. That slot is going to need work to build it up for whatever sub is put in it.. unless I do like a few have done and put an 8" sub ALREADY in a box that fits in that space and just seal it. Though just throwing a boxed 8 in a slot like that then putting a plastic cover over it seems like it'd sound pretty bad. So, somehow mounting an 8" JL sub in that factory slot (you can buy the factory housing and grill etc to make that slot behind my seat ready to put a sub in.. -- ) But since you aren't a sub guy, you probably can't help with that area of expertise. ?</p><p></p><p></p><p>Well.. I say 75watts.. cause that is what was used before.. a Kenwood 150watt amp.. 2x 75 watt RMS and they performed perfectly, no clipping etc. That's 5 more watts RMS than their rating. And, I'm not going to really be cranking this stereo.. a moderate volume level, but not levels that damage hearing over long periods of time Like I did with my system years ago.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Hrmm.. so basically if I understand you properly -- If I ran TWO subs with a 4 channel amp.. running them off each channel or in parallel they'd run in 2ohm, and obviously not the rating for most subs. Now if I do what I'm going to do, and run just ONE sub + the Mids.. Does bridging 2 channels to one sub still push a 4ohm amp to 2ohm?</p><p></p><p>I'm only thinking of a single amp for ROOM of installation,.. and cost. But more for installation and room reasons. I'm sure I can find a Class D mono amp for a sub no problem and a 2 channel amp for the mids for about the same price as a 4 channel amp with enough watts to run all 3 speakers.</p><p></p><p>If I buy a separate set of tweeters that changes the amp situation yet again. If I did go with another set of tweeters,.. What kind of wattage do the mid range tweeters I'd put in the A-piller area use RMS? I know it varies.. but for something in the oh $50-100 range I guess.</p><p></p><p>With the install.. Whether I do it, or I get an installer to do it.. It'd probably be wise to get them to run wires to the mids behind the seat, but just NOT hook them up. So if in the future I wanted to add something there... I wouldn't have to tear the car apart to run them. I could pop them in, and just hook the existing run wires to an amp.</p><p></p><p>And with amps.. how much headroom do I need? When I ran those JL 12's .. they were rated at 125-150watts RMS, and I ran 100watts RMS to them and they didn't clip and were insane. The mids obviously got 75 watts RMS when they were rated at 70watts RMS. I always thought you ran the RMS rating and you were good. I'm seeing subs being able to run say 50-75% of their RMS rating and work well. At the JL 8" sub level.. we're talking 50-125watts MAX RMS.</p><p></p><p>I just installed a new battery in this 350z today.. and wow this car is wired tight.. I bet installation in this car is NOT the easiest to install a system in.</p><p></p><p>You live in Alabama, maybe you'd want a side job for some cash //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</p><p></p><p>Thanks</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Chromatic, post: 8209291, member: 659121"] Yeah that game was about as gut-wrenching as a game I've ever felt.. just really unexpected, and took our number 1 season and trampled on it.. plus with a returned 57 yd field goal attempt in the last second to win.. nuts. But, I'm getting over it. Saban acccepting his 7.x million contract at Alabama when Texas offered 10million makes me feel better,.. I think Saban will stay and end his career at tuscaloosa. Yeah,.. I'd have to go have a double look to see if the Base model even has tweeters going.. But, these speakers are about the quality of buying Walmart $29 speakers.. honestly. There bad enough that even having them on will muddle any mid range to higher end speakers. No I'm not deadset on eliminating tweeters -- Obviously my MB Quarts I have .. HAVE nice tweeters built into them.. it's just the location of them that is probably what your most concerned about (being down low in the doors). If I bought a set of tweeters just to pair them with the MBquarts I have.. which isn't a bad idea -- would I NOT run the tweeter on the MB quarts in the door, and just run the set of tweeters placed up high? Or would it still be beneficial to run BOTH the component (high placement) tweeters AND the tweeters on the MB quart mids that are built over top as coaxials? Interesting thought, idea.. No idea how that would work. I'm telling you these MB Quarts (if they sound like they used to) -- are quite impressive. I had two 12" JL's that won minor awards in minor competitions.. and it was primarily due to the accoustics of the car (which is VERY similar to the 350z) -- Those subs were in a 300ZX hatchback.. this is a 350Z hatchback.. the cars are shaped very similarly.. Point is these MB Quarts in the doors SCREAMED with no distortion at ridiculous volume levels.. To keep up with the bass produced in that system I had years ago.. it was actually quite remarkable what that setup did. Yup, I'm familiar with the concept -- Never built a box.. but I know subs are rated for X cubic feet of space non ported,.. and a different rating if ported, etc. I'd probably match sub to Box rather than vice versa -- Sounds weird, but money wise.. the enclosures for even ONE sub,.. is WAY more expensive than even a mid-high end sub. (And I'm not doing more than one sub.. I don't want car rattling bass.. I want that clean punch.. that's all.) Which is why doing something in the factory location behind my passenger seat would be super ideal.. cause I don't want to take up room in the trunk,.. and a rear facing sub is going to push out insane bass in that car because of the shape.. It would be rear facing on a hatchback,.. and I know it'd be like the 300ZX .. I'd get A LOT more out of a W1 JL with even 100-150watts on it than some get with 500+watts and better subs. Sounds odd, but the car and where the sub is placed makes a HUGE difference. Subs with less airspace,.. behind a seat, etc.. Are going to be weaker, by nature.. and for my purpose that's really a "Preferred" thing as odd as that sounds. Which is why something like an 8" JL Audio sub with 75-100 watts RMS would be ALL I wanted .. mounted behind the seat, or in an enclosure in the corner like that one picture I linked of the Wicked Cas enclosure: [URL="http://www.wickedcas.com/~wicked/product.php?productid=44&cat=0&page=3"]Wicked C.A.S.*::*MAGIC BOXES*::*Nissan*::*Nissan 350Z Corner 1x10 Enclosure Sub box Subwoofer enclosure[/URL] Check it out.. $370 JUST for that enclosure,.. I'm obviously NOT buying that. Be nice if I could build something like that myself,.. but that's less woodworking and more molding. So again, I think the most ideal place that would fit in my budget is going to be a sub in the slot behind the driver seat. That slot is going to need work to build it up for whatever sub is put in it.. unless I do like a few have done and put an 8" sub ALREADY in a box that fits in that space and just seal it. Though just throwing a boxed 8 in a slot like that then putting a plastic cover over it seems like it'd sound pretty bad. So, somehow mounting an 8" JL sub in that factory slot (you can buy the factory housing and grill etc to make that slot behind my seat ready to put a sub in.. -- ) But since you aren't a sub guy, you probably can't help with that area of expertise. ? Well.. I say 75watts.. cause that is what was used before.. a Kenwood 150watt amp.. 2x 75 watt RMS and they performed perfectly, no clipping etc. That's 5 more watts RMS than their rating. And, I'm not going to really be cranking this stereo.. a moderate volume level, but not levels that damage hearing over long periods of time Like I did with my system years ago. Hrmm.. so basically if I understand you properly -- If I ran TWO subs with a 4 channel amp.. running them off each channel or in parallel they'd run in 2ohm, and obviously not the rating for most subs. Now if I do what I'm going to do, and run just ONE sub + the Mids.. Does bridging 2 channels to one sub still push a 4ohm amp to 2ohm? I'm only thinking of a single amp for ROOM of installation,.. and cost. But more for installation and room reasons. I'm sure I can find a Class D mono amp for a sub no problem and a 2 channel amp for the mids for about the same price as a 4 channel amp with enough watts to run all 3 speakers. If I buy a separate set of tweeters that changes the amp situation yet again. If I did go with another set of tweeters,.. What kind of wattage do the mid range tweeters I'd put in the A-piller area use RMS? I know it varies.. but for something in the oh $50-100 range I guess. With the install.. Whether I do it, or I get an installer to do it.. It'd probably be wise to get them to run wires to the mids behind the seat, but just NOT hook them up. So if in the future I wanted to add something there... I wouldn't have to tear the car apart to run them. I could pop them in, and just hook the existing run wires to an amp. And with amps.. how much headroom do I need? When I ran those JL 12's .. they were rated at 125-150watts RMS, and I ran 100watts RMS to them and they didn't clip and were insane. The mids obviously got 75 watts RMS when they were rated at 70watts RMS. I always thought you ran the RMS rating and you were good. I'm seeing subs being able to run say 50-75% of their RMS rating and work well. At the JL 8" sub level.. we're talking 50-125watts MAX RMS. I just installed a new battery in this 350z today.. and wow this car is wired tight.. I bet installation in this car is NOT the easiest to install a system in. You live in Alabama, maybe you'd want a side job for some cash [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] Thanks [/QUOTE]
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2008 350Z - Budget install - need ideas.
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