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2001 Chevy Blazer Upgrades
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<blockquote data-quote="Buldg7" data-source="post: 8563067" data-attributes="member: 672486"><p>So a lot has happened as far as planning in the last two weeks. Well remember how I said I needed to start planning out the mids and highs? Well I have! As well as the four amp racks, since all of the amps are going to be too large to fit underneath the center console. I've decided that space will be dedicated to signal processing, the EQs and the active crossovers, etc. That way I have quick and easy access to everything I'll need when I'm tuning the system.</p><p></p><p>Okay, brief speaker rundown:</p><p></p><p>Front doors (each):</p><p></p><p>4x 6.5" 300W midbass</p><p></p><p>3x 4" 100W coaxial midrange</p><p></p><p>2x 1.75" 100W titanium bullet tweeter</p><p></p><p>Rear doors (each):</p><p></p><p>2x 6.5" 300W midbass</p><p></p><p>2x 4" 100W coaxial midrange</p><p></p><p>1x 1.75" 100W titanium bullet tweeter</p><p></p><p>For all of these (unless I wanted to get some crazy expensive huge amps) I'll need 8 amps to drive everything, including the one for the sub. I'm getting all of the amps from Boss Audio, just to make things easier. Because I wanted all of the equipment that wasn't part of the modified door panels to be quickly and easily removable, I had to incorporate panel connectors and cable connectors into the design, as well as making sure there was space for the latches that will secure them. I'll be using NL4 Speakon connectors for all of the connections because they're reliable, I've worked with them before, they lock, when they're disconnected no contacts are exposed, and also because of the design, none of the contacts short on others during connection or disconnection. I've not only drawn out how the door speakers will be wired which allowed me to find the right amp for each application, and I also drew out all of the wires going from the amps on each rack to the panel connectors on that rack to not only create something I can refer to when I go to wire everything, but also allowed me to more easily figure out how many connectors I need to buy.</p><p></p><p>Power! So in planning out wire runs I've started figuring out how I'm going to deal with getting power to everything, as well as figuring out my main grounding points. Well first, I am going to do the 1/0 gauge "big 3" wiring upgrade. I'll also be upgrading to the Mechman E Series 370 amp Billet high-output alternator, and will probably pick up an XS Power battery to replace my OEM one as well. At the battery I'll have an SMD quad ANL fuse block which will take a 1/0 gauge wire from the battery and then put it out to 4 output wires that will be fed through the firewall, one for each amp rack.</p><p></p><p>Already I'm not exactly making this project easy on myself, but the front door panels are going to take it to a new level. On the front doors I'm going to attempt to mount all of the speakers on axis. I'll be either ordering or making speaker pods for each speaker and then figuring out the angles and using not so permanent means of mounting the pods, then building up the door panels with MDF and body filler. I'll be painting the door panels, the dash front, and the center console to match each other.</p><p></p><p>While I have yet to start the actual construction for any of these things, I have gotten one of my small bass amps (I'm a bassist among other things) to work as a sub. It actually sounds pretty good with the stock Bose speakers.</p><p></p><p>While this project has evolved into something much bigger than I first imagined, I am still going to be buying things in stages, and will be starting my new job very soon, which will help me to save more and speed up this whole process quite a bit.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Buldg7, post: 8563067, member: 672486"] So a lot has happened as far as planning in the last two weeks. Well remember how I said I needed to start planning out the mids and highs? Well I have! As well as the four amp racks, since all of the amps are going to be too large to fit underneath the center console. I've decided that space will be dedicated to signal processing, the EQs and the active crossovers, etc. That way I have quick and easy access to everything I'll need when I'm tuning the system. Okay, brief speaker rundown: Front doors (each): 4x 6.5" 300W midbass 3x 4" 100W coaxial midrange 2x 1.75" 100W titanium bullet tweeter Rear doors (each): 2x 6.5" 300W midbass 2x 4" 100W coaxial midrange 1x 1.75" 100W titanium bullet tweeter For all of these (unless I wanted to get some crazy expensive huge amps) I'll need 8 amps to drive everything, including the one for the sub. I'm getting all of the amps from Boss Audio, just to make things easier. Because I wanted all of the equipment that wasn't part of the modified door panels to be quickly and easily removable, I had to incorporate panel connectors and cable connectors into the design, as well as making sure there was space for the latches that will secure them. I'll be using NL4 Speakon connectors for all of the connections because they're reliable, I've worked with them before, they lock, when they're disconnected no contacts are exposed, and also because of the design, none of the contacts short on others during connection or disconnection. I've not only drawn out how the door speakers will be wired which allowed me to find the right amp for each application, and I also drew out all of the wires going from the amps on each rack to the panel connectors on that rack to not only create something I can refer to when I go to wire everything, but also allowed me to more easily figure out how many connectors I need to buy. Power! So in planning out wire runs I've started figuring out how I'm going to deal with getting power to everything, as well as figuring out my main grounding points. Well first, I am going to do the 1/0 gauge "big 3" wiring upgrade. I'll also be upgrading to the Mechman E Series 370 amp Billet high-output alternator, and will probably pick up an XS Power battery to replace my OEM one as well. At the battery I'll have an SMD quad ANL fuse block which will take a 1/0 gauge wire from the battery and then put it out to 4 output wires that will be fed through the firewall, one for each amp rack. Already I'm not exactly making this project easy on myself, but the front door panels are going to take it to a new level. On the front doors I'm going to attempt to mount all of the speakers on axis. I'll be either ordering or making speaker pods for each speaker and then figuring out the angles and using not so permanent means of mounting the pods, then building up the door panels with MDF and body filler. I'll be painting the door panels, the dash front, and the center console to match each other. While I have yet to start the actual construction for any of these things, I have gotten one of my small bass amps (I'm a bassist among other things) to work as a sub. It actually sounds pretty good with the stock Bose speakers. While this project has evolved into something much bigger than I first imagined, I am still going to be buying things in stages, and will be starting my new job very soon, which will help me to save more and speed up this whole process quite a bit. [/QUOTE]
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