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2001 Chevy Blazer Upgrades
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<blockquote data-quote="Buldg7" data-source="post: 8559792" data-attributes="member: 672486"><p>Yet another update. I know it's been a while, but as I'm sure most of you know, life tends to like to get in the way of projects like these. Some good news is that the price of the SSL component subs has gone down, to $12.80 a piece, so now for all 8 it's only going to be $102.40. Due to this price change, I may end up purchasing the subs before purchasing the LED components, especially as the price for all of the LED stuff has gone up to just over $150.</p><p></p><p>One of the big things that I've made progress on involves lots of numbers. I took the time to calculate the internal volume of each sub enclosure, as thanks to the odd shapes that work around the Blazer they aren't the same. They are very close however which is good. Calculating the internal volumes allowed me to calculate the length that the ports need to be for each one. I've actually decided to use 3" PVC instead of the 4" adjustable sub ports for two reasons: the price kept going from $10 a piece to $40 a piece for the ports, and then half of the time they were unavailable. The other reason is that for the length of the ports, it makes more sense for there to be a 90° bend and for most of the port to run lengthwise on the inside of the cab. The tuning I'm shooting for is 30hz, and while I know that the tuning may not be quite optimal for the SSL drivers, I'm also keeping in mind ones I may upgrade to in the future, that have a lower Fs (the SS8's have an Fs of 59.2hz).</p><p></p><p>Another thing that I've done since my last update is that I've modelled the LED Switch control panel, and figured out that I want three color-independent zones, one being the front and rear seat floor lighting, one being the 'trunk' and sub box lighting, and the third being the overhead and window accent lighting. That's the main reason that the LED price has gone up; now I'm budgeting for 3 LED power supply/receivers. One thing I'm unsure of at the moment is whether or not all three remotes will be on the same frequency, but I modeled the panel with a slot large enough to comfortably house three remotes. If it turns out that I only need one, then I'll modify the design of the control panel before I actually build it. I'm also contemplating different LED controllers, but it seems so far that this is the best option.</p><p></p><p>One thing that I haven't begun to do yet, which I have to start on is sketching out what I want to do with the center console. I also think I want to hinge a top portion of the center console to allow better access to the amp(s) that will be inside it (or underneath it, depending on how you look at it).</p><p></p><p>Another step I need to start planning out is upgrading the mids and highs. I want to not only replace the door speakers, but add some, quite a few in fact, and of course run them off of a new amp (or amps), which would probably also be in/under the center console. I have an image in my mind of what I'd like the final product to look like, but things like what drivers I'd use, what amp(s) I'd use, and other things like EQs and standalone crossovers are what I need to find and price. Also the wiring to go to and from all of these components, including power distribution. Speaking of which, I may need to not only upgrade to a high output alternator, but also a second battery, which are also things I need to do more research on.</p><p></p><p>As you all can see, there's still a lot to be done, both planning for the future steps, and execution of what I've already planned. While this is going to be a fairly long journey, I hope that some of you find it an interesting one to watch me work my way through.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Buldg7, post: 8559792, member: 672486"] Yet another update. I know it's been a while, but as I'm sure most of you know, life tends to like to get in the way of projects like these. Some good news is that the price of the SSL component subs has gone down, to $12.80 a piece, so now for all 8 it's only going to be $102.40. Due to this price change, I may end up purchasing the subs before purchasing the LED components, especially as the price for all of the LED stuff has gone up to just over $150. One of the big things that I've made progress on involves lots of numbers. I took the time to calculate the internal volume of each sub enclosure, as thanks to the odd shapes that work around the Blazer they aren't the same. They are very close however which is good. Calculating the internal volumes allowed me to calculate the length that the ports need to be for each one. I've actually decided to use 3" PVC instead of the 4" adjustable sub ports for two reasons: the price kept going from $10 a piece to $40 a piece for the ports, and then half of the time they were unavailable. The other reason is that for the length of the ports, it makes more sense for there to be a 90° bend and for most of the port to run lengthwise on the inside of the cab. The tuning I'm shooting for is 30hz, and while I know that the tuning may not be quite optimal for the SSL drivers, I'm also keeping in mind ones I may upgrade to in the future, that have a lower Fs (the SS8's have an Fs of 59.2hz). Another thing that I've done since my last update is that I've modelled the LED Switch control panel, and figured out that I want three color-independent zones, one being the front and rear seat floor lighting, one being the 'trunk' and sub box lighting, and the third being the overhead and window accent lighting. That's the main reason that the LED price has gone up; now I'm budgeting for 3 LED power supply/receivers. One thing I'm unsure of at the moment is whether or not all three remotes will be on the same frequency, but I modeled the panel with a slot large enough to comfortably house three remotes. If it turns out that I only need one, then I'll modify the design of the control panel before I actually build it. I'm also contemplating different LED controllers, but it seems so far that this is the best option. One thing that I haven't begun to do yet, which I have to start on is sketching out what I want to do with the center console. I also think I want to hinge a top portion of the center console to allow better access to the amp(s) that will be inside it (or underneath it, depending on how you look at it). Another step I need to start planning out is upgrading the mids and highs. I want to not only replace the door speakers, but add some, quite a few in fact, and of course run them off of a new amp (or amps), which would probably also be in/under the center console. I have an image in my mind of what I'd like the final product to look like, but things like what drivers I'd use, what amp(s) I'd use, and other things like EQs and standalone crossovers are what I need to find and price. Also the wiring to go to and from all of these components, including power distribution. Speaking of which, I may need to not only upgrade to a high output alternator, but also a second battery, which are also things I need to do more research on. As you all can see, there's still a lot to be done, both planning for the future steps, and execution of what I've already planned. While this is going to be a fairly long journey, I hope that some of you find it an interesting one to watch me work my way through. [/QUOTE]
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