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2000 mercury mystique-first ever custom install and need advice
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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 8105351" data-attributes="member: 576029"><p>2. y-cables don't reduce voltage. parallel circuits have the same voltage. current increases and the voltage gain relationship between HU output impedance and the halved amplifier input impedance results in a slight reduction in voltage delivered, but more like 10% reduction.</p><p></p><p>4. CLD goes on the metal surfaces first. I put absorption in the doors, my build logs detail that. then seal doors. end result of the door is when knocking on the metal it should sound more like wood. CCF is for rattles and panel/clip isolation so use it where it makes sense. if you are doing MLV then you need CCF (or some other soft material) between the MLV and metal surfaces for it to be effective (any sound barrier should be decoupled from other hard surfaces).</p><p></p><p>5. you can mount the subs to the inside of the baffle instead of the outside - that way you have clearance. i recommend absorption in the sealed box also. IB requires specific subs and you'd be wasting trunk space to leave the box in place for IB. your idea to keep the rear deck speakers sealed is a good one. just add absorption in there also. you want sound absorption in sealed enclosures. if anything, add a rectangular port through the rear deck. two round ports are also sufficient - length to be determined by tuning recommendations. i like sealed enclosures though.</p><p></p><p>there are assloads of people around Tulsa. start hitting up shows for MECA, USACi, and IASCA and hang out in the SQ area. they will tell you to avoid adding 6x9's to your car and to remove the tweeters on your b-pillars. they will tell you to try to get all of the sound to come from the dash - while no speakers are on the dash, it can sound as if the performers are on the hood of your car once you get speaker locations, crossovers, and time alignment situated. the rear 8's are fine for midbass (though midbass is desired to be up front). if you want to make the car louder, move to a 3-way front soundstage. that way you get a dedicated midrange that plays cleaner and louder and a dedicated midbass up front. time align the speakers and they will add together well. if you can get those 8's in your front doors and the 6.5's in your kicks you will be taking the right steps. make that your next goal, if possible. if those 8's don't fit, Helix Esprit will.</p><p></p><p>you can get a head unit with processing to avoid the need for a DSP. the Alpine CDA-9887 has a good amount of processing available (what i use).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 8105351, member: 576029"] 2. y-cables don't reduce voltage. parallel circuits have the same voltage. current increases and the voltage gain relationship between HU output impedance and the halved amplifier input impedance results in a slight reduction in voltage delivered, but more like 10% reduction. 4. CLD goes on the metal surfaces first. I put absorption in the doors, my build logs detail that. then seal doors. end result of the door is when knocking on the metal it should sound more like wood. CCF is for rattles and panel/clip isolation so use it where it makes sense. if you are doing MLV then you need CCF (or some other soft material) between the MLV and metal surfaces for it to be effective (any sound barrier should be decoupled from other hard surfaces). 5. you can mount the subs to the inside of the baffle instead of the outside - that way you have clearance. i recommend absorption in the sealed box also. IB requires specific subs and you'd be wasting trunk space to leave the box in place for IB. your idea to keep the rear deck speakers sealed is a good one. just add absorption in there also. you want sound absorption in sealed enclosures. if anything, add a rectangular port through the rear deck. two round ports are also sufficient - length to be determined by tuning recommendations. i like sealed enclosures though. there are assloads of people around Tulsa. start hitting up shows for MECA, USACi, and IASCA and hang out in the SQ area. they will tell you to avoid adding 6x9's to your car and to remove the tweeters on your b-pillars. they will tell you to try to get all of the sound to come from the dash - while no speakers are on the dash, it can sound as if the performers are on the hood of your car once you get speaker locations, crossovers, and time alignment situated. the rear 8's are fine for midbass (though midbass is desired to be up front). if you want to make the car louder, move to a 3-way front soundstage. that way you get a dedicated midrange that plays cleaner and louder and a dedicated midbass up front. time align the speakers and they will add together well. if you can get those 8's in your front doors and the 6.5's in your kicks you will be taking the right steps. make that your next goal, if possible. if those 8's don't fit, Helix Esprit will. you can get a head unit with processing to avoid the need for a DSP. the Alpine CDA-9887 has a good amount of processing available (what i use). [/QUOTE]
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