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2 diff.size cap question
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<blockquote data-quote="knukonceptz" data-source="post: 1851274" data-attributes="member: 548221"><p>How long do you think it takes to charge a cap when inline in a system like a car? Electricity moves at speed of light, your music moves at oh say speed of sound....which do you think can react faster to the music? Unless your are doing stright sweeps a 1F cap will recharge between beats.</p><p></p><p></p><p>An Isolator does what it says. It isolates Battery A and Battery B (in rear) from each other with the ALT powering both. With the car on, both are equal. Car off Batt A has no draw (other then standard car acc). Batt B is powering your stereo's amps in the rear and being drained while you sit car off and music on (note your HU may be powered still off Batt A if you do not wire it to Batt B and still causing a small draw)</p><p></p><p>Now when you start your car and Batt B is very low, Batt A will start the car, but the ALT will not be happy with Batt B being low and will need to work extra to get that one up and maintain Batt A as well.</p><p></p><p>Running with out the isolator, both Batt A and B would be connected and allow for double the extended play time (assuming they are equal size) and upon start up after the above condition, the ALT sees only one load and it would not need to work as hard as the two batteries combined are not as "dead" as the Batt B alone would have been.</p><p></p><p>Can you drain your batteries with the car off without an isolator - Yes, you can. But with double the reserve you have double the length before this happens. Buy a third battery instead of the Isolator and you have extended your time even longer. Use a voltmeter to monitor your electrical system and you wont need the Isolator to protect you against a dead battery. I guess you could say the isolator just "idiot proofs" the whole thing.</p><p></p><p>If your ALT fails, your running on battery only and that will not last you very long. Certainly not long enough to to save for a HO Alt (unless you make a few hundred $ a day )</p><p></p><p>I am confused, I have always been Pro- Battery and against Isolators, and some what in favor of caps - this of course in audio related topics.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>.5v is minimal but an ESR of .001 is a strain? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif Most battery specs are based on 10.5V is a dead battery. Removing .5V from a 14.4V system is 1/8th of the usable voltage (14.4-10.5 = 3.9; 0.5V is 1/8 of 3.9V)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="knukonceptz, post: 1851274, member: 548221"] How long do you think it takes to charge a cap when inline in a system like a car? Electricity moves at speed of light, your music moves at oh say speed of sound....which do you think can react faster to the music? Unless your are doing stright sweeps a 1F cap will recharge between beats. An Isolator does what it says. It isolates Battery A and Battery B (in rear) from each other with the ALT powering both. With the car on, both are equal. Car off Batt A has no draw (other then standard car acc). Batt B is powering your stereo's amps in the rear and being drained while you sit car off and music on (note your HU may be powered still off Batt A if you do not wire it to Batt B and still causing a small draw) Now when you start your car and Batt B is very low, Batt A will start the car, but the ALT will not be happy with Batt B being low and will need to work extra to get that one up and maintain Batt A as well. Running with out the isolator, both Batt A and B would be connected and allow for double the extended play time (assuming they are equal size) and upon start up after the above condition, the ALT sees only one load and it would not need to work as hard as the two batteries combined are not as "dead" as the Batt B alone would have been. Can you drain your batteries with the car off without an isolator - Yes, you can. But with double the reserve you have double the length before this happens. Buy a third battery instead of the Isolator and you have extended your time even longer. Use a voltmeter to monitor your electrical system and you wont need the Isolator to protect you against a dead battery. I guess you could say the isolator just "idiot proofs" the whole thing. If your ALT fails, your running on battery only and that will not last you very long. Certainly not long enough to to save for a HO Alt (unless you make a few hundred $ a day ) I am confused, I have always been Pro- Battery and against Isolators, and some what in favor of caps - this of course in audio related topics. .5v is minimal but an ESR of .001 is a strain? [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif[/IMG] Most battery specs are based on 10.5V is a dead battery. Removing .5V from a 14.4V system is 1/8th of the usable voltage (14.4-10.5 = 3.9; 0.5V is 1/8 of 3.9V) [/QUOTE]
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