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2 12'' Help
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<blockquote data-quote="i2ain2thunder" data-source="post: 7592875" data-attributes="member: 631331"><p>There are many many posts on high output alternators and batteries if you use the search navigation in this forum you can read up on people's opinions. I'll give my opinion and general layout.</p><p></p><p>Batteries: A good battery is an AGM Or a Dry Cell battery. AGM's are typically cheaper than Dry Cell's and usually need to be larger to perform the same capacity job as a Dry Cell battery. I believe Dry Cell batteries are supposed to be better for car audio purposes because they release their power quicker and charge quicker than an AGM but don't quote me on that.</p><p></p><p>In my experience most all batteries are created equal performance wise, they are rated based on how much power they can store total and by how fast they can release that power. Others may dissagree and say one battery is superior to another I'm just saying in my experience I just look at those 2 stats, then check price (value) and customer reviews and warrenties. Batteries Known to be well built for car audio applications: Optima Yellow top or blue top, Odyssey, Kinetic, XS, Shuiriken(think I spelled that wrong), Deka, Batcap.</p><p></p><p>High Output alternators: What you want out of an alternator, Ratings on alternators should be pretty close to actual operating parameters for just about all alternator companies. You want an alternator that gives you full rating somewhere within your engine's typical driving range, alternators produce more power the higher the RPMs. Most driving RPMs are around 1.8-2.4k RPMs Idle is typically around .9 RPMs so you want an alternator that is rated at full rating at around 1.8k RPM and they are usually around half rating at Idle. Some Well known highly used companies for car audio include: DC Power, Mechman, EA (Excessive Amperage), Nations Auto Electric....theres some others but I forget.</p><p></p><p>Oh and you are welcome //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif glad I could help. I think you are going about things the right way trying to do everything right the first time. I'd suggest looking into some sound deadner at the very least for help with rattles/vibrations, they also improve midbass response, road noise, vehicle insulation all that good stuff. I've never known someone to purchase sound deadner and regret it. I don't have enough experience to tell you exactly what size batteries you need for your application, but I think if you have even just a stock one up front and a decent one in the rear run in parallel it should be just fine with a high output alternator, without a high output alternator I don't know what to recommend to get by but if you go that route at least do the big 3 and get 2 big good batteries.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="i2ain2thunder, post: 7592875, member: 631331"] There are many many posts on high output alternators and batteries if you use the search navigation in this forum you can read up on people's opinions. I'll give my opinion and general layout. Batteries: A good battery is an AGM Or a Dry Cell battery. AGM's are typically cheaper than Dry Cell's and usually need to be larger to perform the same capacity job as a Dry Cell battery. I believe Dry Cell batteries are supposed to be better for car audio purposes because they release their power quicker and charge quicker than an AGM but don't quote me on that. In my experience most all batteries are created equal performance wise, they are rated based on how much power they can store total and by how fast they can release that power. Others may dissagree and say one battery is superior to another I'm just saying in my experience I just look at those 2 stats, then check price (value) and customer reviews and warrenties. Batteries Known to be well built for car audio applications: Optima Yellow top or blue top, Odyssey, Kinetic, XS, Shuiriken(think I spelled that wrong), Deka, Batcap. High Output alternators: What you want out of an alternator, Ratings on alternators should be pretty close to actual operating parameters for just about all alternator companies. You want an alternator that gives you full rating somewhere within your engine's typical driving range, alternators produce more power the higher the RPMs. Most driving RPMs are around 1.8-2.4k RPMs Idle is typically around .9 RPMs so you want an alternator that is rated at full rating at around 1.8k RPM and they are usually around half rating at Idle. Some Well known highly used companies for car audio include: DC Power, Mechman, EA (Excessive Amperage), Nations Auto Electric....theres some others but I forget. Oh and you are welcome [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] glad I could help. I think you are going about things the right way trying to do everything right the first time. I'd suggest looking into some sound deadner at the very least for help with rattles/vibrations, they also improve midbass response, road noise, vehicle insulation all that good stuff. I've never known someone to purchase sound deadner and regret it. I don't have enough experience to tell you exactly what size batteries you need for your application, but I think if you have even just a stock one up front and a decent one in the rear run in parallel it should be just fine with a high output alternator, without a high output alternator I don't know what to recommend to get by but if you go that route at least do the big 3 and get 2 big good batteries. [/QUOTE]
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