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2 12'' Help
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<blockquote data-quote="i2ain2thunder" data-source="post: 7591610" data-attributes="member: 631331"><p>The reason for a voltage drop stems from your cars specific electrical needs, remember amperage is your total electrical flow. Standard operating systems in a car including heaterfan, headlights dashlights radio and all electrical stuff is around 60amps. Now most alternators are rated in amps to tell you how much power you have to work with, stock ones are usually anywhere from 80-120 amps. So if your car has a 105 amp alternator stock it has roughly 45 amps extra to supply aftermarket electronics safely. Looking at our amplifiers electrical needs heres where we usually make a decision on how much amps we need our alternators to produce.</p><p></p><p>How to tell how much power your amplifier truly can do (a basic version)/will need. Basic electrical: Volts x Amps = Watts.</p><p></p><p>If you look at the fuses on your amplifier or (fuse rating) you will see say for example 4 30 amp fuses, or 120 fuse rating and it says it is rated for 1500 watts rms. Since we now know the amps and we know you want your amp normally operating at between 12-14 volts we can use the equation Volts x Amps = Watts, so 12 x 120 = 1440 (pretty close to the rating of 1500 watts when this happens its a good sign that the manufacturer is not over exaggerating the amplifier's rating)</p><p></p><p>Many people say fuse rating x 10 but honestly I don't understand that you never wanna send an amp 10 volts, but maybe theres something I don't know.</p><p></p><p>Anyway so your fuse rating is 120 thats how many amps this amplifier has the potential to pull from your electrical system (it is likely the amplifier will never pull this much juice unless you're just playing a flat 50hz tune on full tilt) So you want an alternator capable of powering your car's standard electrical systems (roughly 60 amps) plus your amplifier which is 120 amps, 60+120=180 so you want an alternator rated at 180 amps or above, in order to avoid dips in your voltage.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="i2ain2thunder, post: 7591610, member: 631331"] The reason for a voltage drop stems from your cars specific electrical needs, remember amperage is your total electrical flow. Standard operating systems in a car including heaterfan, headlights dashlights radio and all electrical stuff is around 60amps. Now most alternators are rated in amps to tell you how much power you have to work with, stock ones are usually anywhere from 80-120 amps. So if your car has a 105 amp alternator stock it has roughly 45 amps extra to supply aftermarket electronics safely. Looking at our amplifiers electrical needs heres where we usually make a decision on how much amps we need our alternators to produce. How to tell how much power your amplifier truly can do (a basic version)/will need. Basic electrical: Volts x Amps = Watts. If you look at the fuses on your amplifier or (fuse rating) you will see say for example 4 30 amp fuses, or 120 fuse rating and it says it is rated for 1500 watts rms. Since we now know the amps and we know you want your amp normally operating at between 12-14 volts we can use the equation Volts x Amps = Watts, so 12 x 120 = 1440 (pretty close to the rating of 1500 watts when this happens its a good sign that the manufacturer is not over exaggerating the amplifier's rating) Many people say fuse rating x 10 but honestly I don't understand that you never wanna send an amp 10 volts, but maybe theres something I don't know. Anyway so your fuse rating is 120 thats how many amps this amplifier has the potential to pull from your electrical system (it is likely the amplifier will never pull this much juice unless you're just playing a flat 50hz tune on full tilt) So you want an alternator capable of powering your car's standard electrical systems (roughly 60 amps) plus your amplifier which is 120 amps, 60+120=180 so you want an alternator rated at 180 amps or above, in order to avoid dips in your voltage. [/QUOTE]
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