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Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
12" NVX VCW124 Subwoofer 1000 watts RMS
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8629020" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>yes that ported box is muddy compared to sealed comment triggered me oh lord oh jesus!!! (sarcasm)</p><p></p><p>I still stand by my statement(modified to you learning more about enclosure building though rather than having someone else do it) because box building is more than just building to manufacturer's recommended specs. You have to factor in your cabin gain in order to get flatter frequency response and proper vehicle/port loading to get proper phase and minimize group delay. Its supposed to be designed with your vehicle acoustics and driver's ts parameters AND your input power into the equation. Which you completely did not fact in, you literally just looked at the manufacturer's box specs and built it to that which is FAR from optimal. Transfer function aka Bandwidth, group delay and overall output is factors that make up good sounding bass and you literally need to learn all of this or else EVERY sub you buy will be mediocre or underperforming in your eyes. Once you do understand proper enclosure design, every sub even a flea market sub can and will impress you.</p><p></p><p>Download audacity and use the spectrum analyzer. Pop music literally doesn't go under 40hz most of the times. rap, you barely have a few handful of modern songs that go down to 28hz. Everything is still focused in the 30 to 60hz range. You dont need to tune low unless you listen to rebassed music where its whale notes under 30hz almost all the times.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8629020, member: 650438"] yes that ported box is muddy compared to sealed comment triggered me oh lord oh jesus!!! (sarcasm) I still stand by my statement(modified to you learning more about enclosure building though rather than having someone else do it) because box building is more than just building to manufacturer's recommended specs. You have to factor in your cabin gain in order to get flatter frequency response and proper vehicle/port loading to get proper phase and minimize group delay. Its supposed to be designed with your vehicle acoustics and driver's ts parameters AND your input power into the equation. Which you completely did not fact in, you literally just looked at the manufacturer's box specs and built it to that which is FAR from optimal. Transfer function aka Bandwidth, group delay and overall output is factors that make up good sounding bass and you literally need to learn all of this or else EVERY sub you buy will be mediocre or underperforming in your eyes. Once you do understand proper enclosure design, every sub even a flea market sub can and will impress you. Download audacity and use the spectrum analyzer. Pop music literally doesn't go under 40hz most of the times. rap, you barely have a few handful of modern songs that go down to 28hz. Everything is still focused in the 30 to 60hz range. You dont need to tune low unless you listen to rebassed music where its whale notes under 30hz almost all the times. [/QUOTE]
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12" NVX VCW124 Subwoofer 1000 watts RMS
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