Recent content by Vocaloid

Double the power for 3db louder I think... I personally wouldn't touch it unless you found it overpowering; then maybe roll it back a bit. Only time I'd worry would be if my rear fill speakers were too loud myself. I wouldn't want those dwarfing the rest of the system. Everything else is...

Piecemeal for sure. Install the headunit one day (and maybe fronts). Install rears on another. Mount the sub on another. Run the amp on another. It'll give time to test as you go!

Yep; meter. Or the rubber guard on the magnet... does it come all the way around the back of the magnet too? Slide that off if you can and see if there is anything stamped in there.

Absolutely! I was expecting to see a pair of 8's or 6.5's in those links for a truck build. But if you can fit a pair of 10's, and power them, it should be plenty to beef up the low end. Going for a 2 ohm load then with the DVC subs? A little complicated to run on a mono amp, but should get it...

Looks sturdy; bet they can take a hit!

Very cool teardown; thanks for the pics! It's interesting to see how close to the limits equipment can be tested (or exceeded!) before failure. Reminds me of the 60 HZ AC 'test', only a little safer and you can get some info out of the experiment.

Might be thermal shutdown on the amp. Check and see if it's running hot next time it does it? Tuning might have other indicators of problems. A box that is too small and sealed may not have enough coiling for the voicecoils on the subs and can cause failure. A box that is too big sealed (acting...

I've toyed with the idea of going without. Maybe a nice 4 channel amp, or 4 channel and a mono sub amp with cables I can plug my cell phone into. I've got the knobs myself, and I don't really want to mess with those. Buttons would be even worse!

Careful when playing with impedance though. If the stock head unit can only handle 4 or 6 ohms or something, then you add another 4 ohm load in parallel, the load can drop too far on that channel and cook yer amp . Best situation would be if it was a DVC sub, identical impedance per coil, low...

I'd worry about it affecting output at the bottom with numbers so close... we're only talking a few hertz! But yes, I would try it first if you already have the software and see if it's to your liking. A long term solution is to have hardware so the setup is permanent though unless you don't...

It would be a bonus if the tweeters had their own channels. Then you can adjust the gain to taste, and probably use a filter (if your amp has it) to keep the lower frequencies off of them. Otherwise yeah, I would tether them to the front channels with either 'bass blocker' or other passive...

I never would have considered the factory amp possibly being the culprit! Thanks for the link; interesting read for sure! Also I would consider running new speaker lines to the doors then. It's possible the line to the right door is pinched or grounding out if the electronics check out otherwise.

My guess is that it had something to do with the bass boost. I would start by backing down the gain, picking any arbitrary bass boost setting, then bring the gain back up. Gauge where you are at, then try it again with a little more bass boost and see if it gets it closer to where you were at...

Good idea filtering out the low stuff. I was going to suggest that maybe the speakers are looking for a little more power than the stock unit is putting to them (distortion from running low power mangling the voicecoils)... but those speakers are getting praise as a good drop in replacement for...

Oh, and for amplifiers to check out, maybe Kenwood KAC-5206, Pioneer GMA3602, or PIONEER GM-A5602 if you want something a little bigger. Anything with a crossover / low pass filter would be good to cut the high stuff and only push bass through. There's nicer / bigger stuff out there depending on...